Vanagon EuroVan
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Date:         Wed, 11 May 2016 11:42:14 -1000
Reply-To:     Scott <SCOTTDANIEL@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott <SCOTTDANIEL@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Pending clutch replacement
Comments: To: Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA>
In-Reply-To:  <90BC1DA8-14D4-40EC-924E-26F917382A80@NBNet.nb.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

resurface, not replace. The flywheels are quite good , I seldom see one that isn't usuable. I have about 8 good used ones in stock if anyone needs one.

Heck ..I seldom resurface them even. ..but just clean up the surface.

be sure to pay very close to your Pilot Bearing and the Felt Dust Seal for it .. this is an area that is often not attended to correctly and throughly. there is a small metal ring pressed in the middle of the hole the input shaft goes through.. DO NOT let a machine shop have this little ring ! By law, they are required to loose it, then your shop doing your clutch will just leave out the felt dust seal and your pilot bearing will be ruined in a couple of years.

( there is a way to use a diesel vanagon pilot bearing that has a 'real' clutch dust seal ...a proper litttle rubber lip. There is a small mod needed for the flywheel to use that tho. ..but it's way mo' betta. )

change your clutch hydraulic fluid too ..like once a year even. at least every two years.

lube your clutch pedal clevis pin and hole in the clutch pedal ..a very weak area that wears cause it never gets lubed. lube the snot out of the cross shaft in the bell housing until it pivots very smoothly .. another area that never gets lubed.

'hopefully' if you use a shop .. they will really really care about doing a very very good job. ( good luck on that ! )

have them check the Starter Bushing in the Bell Housing . it's super easy to deal with , with the trans out of the van ...harder with trans installed.

have them check the trans magnetic drain plug to see how much metal is on it. Great time to change the tranaxle gear oil, and lube the entire shift linkage all the way up to the base of the shifter.

Scott

On 05/11/2016 07:02 AM, Roy Nicholl wrote: > Question 2: Should I plan to replace the flywheel while everything is apart? > > >> On 11-May-2016, at 13:58, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNet.nb.ca> wrote: >> >> When I pulled the Hyena (’88 Westy WBX) out of storage last Saturday, I felt what I though might have been a little clutch shudder on the way home. I experienced a shudder twice more this week - first thing in the morning after the Hyena had been sitting all night. >> >> The van has ~@235K on the clock and, as far as I can tell from the records I inherited, the clutch has never been replaced. I’m guessing the actual clutch replacement is similar to my ’66 Westy, but the disconnecting and reconnecting of the engine’s “tethers” is a much more involved. >> >> Given my work schedule over the next month, I’m going to have to pay to have this done if I plan on being able to take the boy camping this summer - he’s been playing in the Hyena every day since it came home - and that likely won’t be cheap. If I’m going to shell out a very wince-able amount of cash to have the old, snarly-but-good, local guy swap the clutch, I may as well use the opportunity to upgrade to a clutch that will (should?) last longer. >> >> I looked at an OEM (Sachs) clutch kit last autumn - because it was for sale locally - but it was stamped as made in China (not Germany). I know parts quality coming out of China can be hit or miss, are the Chinese Sachs bits of the same calibre as those made at home (Germany)? I have yet to find a Canadian supplier of the Luks clutch kit {I’ve read there are two Luk clutches - a “regular” one and a “heavier" one intended for syncros?} or a Kennedy replacement clutch. >> >> Are there other candidates I should consider?


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