Date: Sun, 8 May 2016 14:18:44 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
In-Reply-To: <04F2773E-1380-4707-9ACA-50F6A5F1A6EC@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Torque multipliers are readily available tools. Just bring money. For the
most part 1/2-inch drive, (Standard) tools are meant for work up to 150 ft.
lbs. There are some 1/2" drive torque wrenches that go up to 250 ft. lbs.
but it is work to use them at that range with the short handles. For this
job you really need 3/4" stuff and even then a breaker bar sometimes is not
enough. Using cheater pipes and stuff is an abuse of tools and carries a
risk of things breaking with the falling off and stuff flying that goes with
it.
For the individual doing casual work a 2HP compressor with a 20 gallon tank
will run any tool you need even if briefly. Even a 3/4 impact wrench. If you
have alloy wheels the striker wrench won't work with the wheels on. Having a
set of impact wrenches and a 3/8" drive air wrench (non-impact) will take
hours off of so many repairs.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
OlRivrRat
Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2016 12:46 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
I've occasionally wondered why one of our Van'Fam' Fabricators
(Alistair or ?) hasn't come up with a
Torque Multiplier Tool, Or an A Mod to the Old one for the Bug, that will
work on a Vanagon ~
On 8 May , 2016, at 10:05 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Any time you are tryingbto remove a large nut - heck, even some
> smaller nut or bolts - some extra precautions are in order. Dennis
> covered his pretty well. For myself, if I can get at it, throw a rag
> over the work. You can never tell when a piece of shrapnel will come
flying off.
>
> As for large bolts or nuts such as the axle nut they really ought to
> be covered. In industry such items can be huge an subject to enormous
torque.
> When I worked in the aviation industry, (I'm old enough now to feel
> like the first mechanic to work on the Wright Brothers flying machine)
> we used what was called a Sweeney Wrench to tighten and loosen the nut
> that held four blade propellers on the shaft. Some of those went to 2400
foot lbs.
> The Sweeny could deliver, as it was a geared, chain drive apparatus
> with splines inside to hold onto the shaft while it turned that nut up
> to torque
> - or loosened it. Sometimes I think we need one of those when it
> comes to having to deal with the nut and stub axle on our Vanagons.
> There's no way that nut won't turn with a Sweeny!!
>
> John
> On May 8, 2016 10:06, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Depending on where the jack stands were placed the weight behind them
>> is already trying to lift the front off the ground. It is normal for
>> a threaded fastener assembly to require much more torque to loosen
>> then applied for tightening, that is part of how they work. Tension
>> and friction. Rust and corrosion can make things worse. Normally, the
>> brakes can be serviced without removing the hub. It only needs to be
>> removed if servicing the wheel bearings or replacing the backing plate.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> Behalf Of Don Hanson
>> Sent: Sunday, May 8, 2016 9:22 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: striking caution by dennis
>>
>> Incredibly, when I was once trying to remove the axle nut from my 84,
>> after getting it all up on jackstands, etc.....
>>
>> ....I got a really long cheater bar and put it onto my 3/4" drive
>> breaker bar, after locking the wheel with the Ebrake. I put my own full
>> body weight (165lbs) on the end of the bar...nuthin... Asked two of
>> my friends to get on that bar with me....We lifted the front of the
>> vanagon off the ground, and still didn't get that nut to
>> budge...Bouncing on that breaker bar with three guys standing on
>> it....the front wheels just bounced up and down....finally cut it off
>>
>> On Sun, May 8, 2016 at 6:12 AM, mike riley <mkriley1@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> You can.t have too many warnings about flying debris! I had to
>>> undergo eye surgery to remove a piece of steel from my cornea
>>> acquired in a industrial setting with safety glasses, gogeles, and a
face shield on.
>>> The best way is no impact at all. Take the cotter pins out and have
>>> a socket and breaker bar. Put it on the passnger side twards the
>>> front with the handle on the ground. Start the engine and slip the
>>> clutch in first gear. It will come off. Alternatively cut the nut
>>> off it is false economy to reuse it as the threads are most likely
>>> distorted.Mike
>>
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