Date: Tue, 10 May 2016 20:26:55 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: =?UTF-8?Q?RE:_86.5_Westy_2.1_=E2=80=94_2_problems.?=
=?UTF-8?Q?_No_High_Startup_Idle___=E2=80=94__Const?=
=?UTF-8?Q?ant_ON_Oil_Light?=
In-Reply-To: <3E803EDD-2E1B-4C26-8F48-03E9DBDE6641@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
1) The idle control valve is not a high failure item. It can be tested. It is too expensive a part to buy new and replace as a troubleshooting effort. The controller is a common item now due to age. A shop should know how to test both. There can also be wiring problems. The idle controller sees engine RPM, coolant temp (Shares Temp 2 sensor with ECU) and air conditioning and power steering inputs. As for high on start up, you should only see 100 to 200 rpm more. Should barely be noticeable.
2) The dynamic oil pressure control board will not cause the oil pressure light to remain on. There either is no oil pressure, a bad switch, or more common the wire going to the low pressure switch is where it should not be and has shorted to the engine tin or exhaust system. After that is done you may need to deal with the higher pressure switch which will flash the light and sound the buzzer above 2,000 rpm. That switch is reverse logic so the connection has to made to stop the light/buzzer over 2,000 rpm. As for what folks are telling you about oil do some reading, learn about viscosity. The Waterboxer needs higher viscosity oils than most any vehicle. 5w-30 or lower will mean an engine replacement after extended highway runs. The second number is the important one, -40 or -50.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Alan Hockstein
Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2016 8:07 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: 86.5 Westy 2.1 — 2 problems. No High Startup Idle — Constant ON Oil Light
1. Idle is okay after warm up but HIGH but won’t kick in at start-up.
We believe the wiring is okay, but mechanic thinks I need an Air idle Control Valve. Is that the most likely cause?
2. The mechanic says a part under the front cluster cowl is bad and causing the Oil Light to stay on constantly. Is that the most likely cause? Not sure what that part is called or have a part number. The oil pressure does not seem to be a problem. I have read mixed reviews about using heavier oil like 15 or 20w but others say 5w is fine in the summer. Also read mixed things about using only Mann or Merle filters. I did use WIX/Napa filters for years prior to ‘2005.
Should I start with a new filter and heavier oil to see if it is corrected before I get that part under the front cowl?
Thanks in advance for any ideas about these two (hopefully last) bugs to get my Westy on the road this summer!
Keeping’ it Alive!
Alan
Alan Hockstein Design
alhocks@gmail.com
