Date: Sat, 21 May 2016 17:19:45 -0400
Reply-To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
In-Reply-To: <CALsWj8=Sjg_4S86MFv+Mm24Ehgv_aUmkG4T=ZMMRg3=3uBh3mw@mail.gmail.com>
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I think you really should pull the whole unit. It's tricky enough puting
the two sections back together when they are both on the shop floor. It
would be impractical (IMHO) to do this under the vehicle, especially for
someone unfamiliar with the task.
Taking the final drive off the engine lets you replace the seal where it
receives the torque converter, which should be done anyway.
You should at least have a floor jack of decent size and whatever wood
assembly is needed to let it hold the unit. A 2X4 across the engine
compartment with a giant eye bolt will let you support the back (front?) of
the engine and lower it a little when needed. When you are under there
steadying things as the unit separates from the engine you need a helper to
control the jack.
Great fun.
Larry A.
On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 3:12 PM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote:
> This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to
> hear. Thanks.
>
> > Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.
>
> Oooh! But...
>
> > The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.
>
> Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
> isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?
>
> > Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque
> converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.
>
> That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that
> ends my easy tranny removal already though.
>
> > Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body.
> Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the
> kits.
>
> Where though? Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from
> a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order
> pistons as required when I have a look inside.
>
> > There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the
> differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the
> correct thickness.
>
> Choose? I found exactly one. Things of variable thickness in the
> manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive
> housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the
> thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
> ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find
> those?
>
> > Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the
> differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You
> will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.
>
> ugh. I will look.
>
> K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no
> choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the
> end.
>
>
> > > My first question, to the amazing people of this group: Can I remove
> ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter
> attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft can
> just slip on and off.
>
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