Date: Sat, 21 May 2016 21:55:09 -1000
Reply-To: Scott <SCOTTDANIEL@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott <SCOTTDANIEL@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
In-Reply-To: <CALsWj8kK9p568iX3pKtitc1z4RA8p5F22h4KYLC5PjJkcZ2XUQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Projects have a way of expanding like this.
Sure happens to me a lot ....
I'll go to work on one broken thing and end up addressing lots of
related things.
Except for parts that take a while to get ..ones I know I'll need and
there's a time factor in getting them,
sure I order those in advance..
otherwise ..I just take things apart, then get all the greases and
fluids and all that.
the differential pan gasket ..
if you are wanting to avoid having the project expand too much,
you can do that later with no real penalties , if you don't mind working
under a car.
the outer CV's ...sure if you undo the inners ...add grease to those ..
then you'll want to do the outers too,
altho ....if I was not certain the auto trans repair would 'stick'
...i.e. be successful ..
I would do the basic minimums to get to the point of driving again.
Sounds like you're going to have quite a bit of things that are new
territory to you ..
I'd suggest do just what you need to ,
heck ..there's risk your trans is not that easily repaired, to the point
of not being a useable core..
so get right at the trans ...pull the whole thing as suggested.
automatic transmissions ..
there's a good reason they are usually worked on by shops that
specialize in transmission repair and rebuilding ..quite complex, lots
of things need to be really right.
get that sucker out and apart in the most direct manner I suggest.
Let us know what you find.
Good used ones are not that common in my experience.
I bought one used one once..they said ..'yep, we know that one is good
..it drive fine a couple of years ago.'
Not !
barely would jam or jerk in reverse . Wouldn't go that's for sure.
The next used one I got was ok ..bought a whole vanagon with an engine
problem to get that one.
And ......my old bad auto trans was worth more as a rebuildable core
than I paid for that whole van.
So I made a couple hundred bucks and got a good used trans.
Still got the van ..a running 'very no-rust at all' ' 85 tin top with
good body, converted to manual trans..
weird paint job....tan with horizontal stripes ... I'd sell it for not
much. Located So. Oregon.
Scott
On 05/21/2016 07:01 PM, C. Abney wrote:
> No choice, then. I didn't want to. The Torque converter, the
> differential, and the CV joints are all things I wanted to learn about
> at a later date. I guess I need grease for the CV joints (may as well
> do the wheel side as well, right?), got the final drive seals already
> (and the pan gasket, though do I need that?), gear oil, what else?
> Torque converter to final drive seal, flanges for the cv, governer
> seal?... what?
>
> On 5/21/16, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I think you really should pull the whole unit. It's tricky enough puting
>> the two sections back together when they are both on the shop floor. It
>> would be impractical (IMHO) to do this under the vehicle, especially for
>> someone unfamiliar with the task.
>> Taking the final drive off the engine lets you replace the seal where it
>> receives the torque converter, which should be done anyway.
>>
>> You should at least have a floor jack of decent size and whatever wood
>> assembly is needed to let it hold the unit. A 2X4 across the engine
>> compartment with a giant eye bolt will let you support the back (front?) of
>> the engine and lower it a little when needed. When you are under there
>> steadying things as the unit separates from the engine you need a helper to
>> control the jack.
>>
>> Great fun.
>> Larry A.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 3:12 PM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to
>>> hear. Thanks.
>>>
>>>> Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.
>>> Oooh! But...
>>>
>>>> The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.
>>> Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
>>> isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?
>>>
>>>> Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque
>>> converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.
>>>
>>> That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that
>>> ends my easy tranny removal already though.
>>>
>>>> Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body.
>>> Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the
>>> kits.
>>>
>>> Where though? Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from
>>> a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order
>>> pistons as required when I have a look inside.
>>>
>>>> There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the
>>> differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the
>>> correct thickness.
>>>
>>> Choose? I found exactly one. Things of variable thickness in the
>>> manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive
>>> housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the
>>> thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
>>> ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find
>>> those?
>>>
>>>> Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the
>>> differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You
>>> will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.
>>>
>>> ugh. I will look.
>>>
>>> K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no
>>> choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the
>>> end.
>>>
>>>
>>>>> My first question, to the amazing people of this group: Can I remove
>>> ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter
>>> attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft
>>> can
>>> just slip on and off.
>>>
>
> --
> There's no .sig like the present
>
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