Date: Sun, 22 May 2016 07:37:57 -0400
Reply-To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
In-Reply-To: <CALsWj8kK9p568iX3pKtitc1z4RA8p5F22h4KYLC5PjJkcZ2XUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Personally, I wouldn't get involved with CV joint service right now, unless
you have heard clicking noises from back there or you find that one seems
suspicious. Typically, I just disconnect the axles at the trans end and
tie them up out of the way with coat hanger wire.
On Sun, May 22, 2016 at 1:01 AM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote:
> No choice, then. I didn't want to. The Torque converter, the
> differential, and the CV joints are all things I wanted to learn about
> at a later date. I guess I need grease for the CV joints (may as well
> do the wheel side as well, right?), got the final drive seals already
> (and the pan gasket, though do I need that?), gear oil, what else?
> Torque converter to final drive seal, flanges for the cv, governer
> seal?... what?
>
> On 5/21/16, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I think you really should pull the whole unit. It's tricky enough puting
> > the two sections back together when they are both on the shop floor. It
> > would be impractical (IMHO) to do this under the vehicle, especially for
> > someone unfamiliar with the task.
> > Taking the final drive off the engine lets you replace the seal where
> it
> > receives the torque converter, which should be done anyway.
> >
> > You should at least have a floor jack of decent size and whatever wood
> > assembly is needed to let it hold the unit. A 2X4 across the engine
> > compartment with a giant eye bolt will let you support the back (front?)
> of
> > the engine and lower it a little when needed. When you are under there
> > steadying things as the unit separates from the engine you need a helper
> to
> > control the jack.
> >
> > Great fun.
> > Larry A.
> >
> >
> > On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 3:12 PM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to
> >> hear. Thanks.
> >>
> >> > Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.
> >>
> >> Oooh! But...
> >>
> >> > The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.
> >>
> >> Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
> >> isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?
> >>
> >> > Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque
> >> converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.
> >>
> >> That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that
> >> ends my easy tranny removal already though.
> >>
> >> > Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body.
> >> Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the
> >> kits.
> >>
> >> Where though? Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from
> >> a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order
> >> pistons as required when I have a look inside.
> >>
> >> > There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the
> >> differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the
> >> correct thickness.
> >>
> >> Choose? I found exactly one. Things of variable thickness in the
> >> manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive
> >> housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the
> >> thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
> >> ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find
> >> those?
> >>
> >> > Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the
> >> differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You
> >> will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.
> >>
> >> ugh. I will look.
> >>
> >> K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no
> >> choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the
> >> end.
> >>
> >>
> >> > > My first question, to the amazing people of this group: Can I
> remove
> >> ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter
> >> attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft
> >> can
> >> just slip on and off.
> >>
> >
>
>
> --
> There's no .sig like the present
>
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