Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (May 2016, week 4)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sun, 22 May 2016 20:14:52 -0700
Reply-To:     Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Setting E-brake causes adjuster to adjust? Hot Drums.
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BAY405-EAS2885EE04A792EC0316DA3BEA04E0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Thanks for the link.

That's the other thing I paid attention to. Heat at the bearings. The area at near axle nut hardly even felt warm but then that doesn't indicate a whole lot given your brake drum comment. I was ever vigilant of excessive bearing heat given that it was my first time torquing those big nuts down. And, they're likely the original bearings.

The last thing I want to do is ruin good parts but I may just drive the bus and see what happens. I'll do what I can first though.

The drums never got hot enough to make the shoe linings smell funny or create expensive smoke.

Neil.

On Sunday, May 22, 2016, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> The tool you want is common and anyone doing drum brakes should have one > like this: > > http://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T71558-Brake-Resetting-Gauge/dp/B00A8FOEFE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463971144&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+drum+gauge > > Measuring temperature at the face of the drum will be very misleading. > There will also be some heat from the bearings. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com > <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of Neil N > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 2:56 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM <javascript:;> > Subject: Re: Setting E-brake causes adjuster to adjust? Hot Drums. > > Very helpful info Dennis. Yes my thought was that IF I remove material at > shoe metal, I'd do so at shoe bottom. Regardless, doing so would be a last > resort. > I'm loath to remove any material but want to achieve the 1.5 mm Bentley > spec. > I'll try to make a better tool for measuring mounted shoe diameter and > drum ID but testing shows I'm getting constant drag. > > I'm not certain my infrared "gun" is getting accurate readings via the > hole in wheel. > Time taken to remove a wheel may not allow the drum to cool that much? > > A quick search on the 'net indicates that 100º F is not that hot for drums > *after* use. > Some see 300º F after hard test braking. > But sustained temps above ambient, well...... > After my first bought of testing, the drums did show what *might* be > slight heat damage as did shoes. I cleaned up the drums and shoes. There is > no brake pulsing as it was when parts were new. > > Image of possible heat damage to drum and shoes. > > Drum http://tinyurl.com/zevgfs9 > > shoes: http://tinyurl.com/gtc76n6 http://tinyurl.com/jvec8vg > > "cleaned up" shoe http://tinyurl.com/jbg34xe drum after light emery > cloth: http://tinyurl.com/zbafhuu > > On 5/22/16, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com <javascript:;>> wrote: > > If you do insist on grinding take it off the bottom. Looking at the > > wear pattern you showed you need to let the shoes seat and then you > > will have room. Back in the days of manually adjusted shoes we set > > them for just a touch of drag to get them seated. Disc brakes drag all > > the time. Keep in mind that when you do use the brakes, it takes some > > time for the heat at the drum-shoe interface to travel to the outside. > > > > If the wheels turn free after releasing the handbrake you are probably > > good to go. > > > > As for the handbrake pushing the brakes out even with the pedal down, > > yes that is normal especially on new shoes. Pressure to the rear > > brakes is regulated. With the van raised in the rear the regulator > > kicks even even further as it thinks the van is nose diving. It works > > both on inertia and angle. Using the handbrake will push the shoes out > > and with them not seated that will wedge,, distort the drum, etc and > > move out letting the brake pedal sink a bit more. I just did a van > > with the GoWesty HD drums and it is amazing how different the > > handbrake and service brakes work. Now installing the front big brake > kit on that van. > > > > Dennis > > > > > > -- > Neil n > > Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca> > > 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy> > > 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/> > > Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay> >

-- Neil n

Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>

1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>

1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>

Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.