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Date:         Sat, 21 May 2016 22:01:30 -0700
Reply-To:     "C. Abney" <tsudonimh@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "C. Abney" <tsudonimh@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
Comments: To: Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CA+r=JhqSnr7Tfr3V5CqL68FpbTOYERCwqzEUEK8mcLmtyx+B9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

No choice, then. I didn't want to. The Torque converter, the differential, and the CV joints are all things I wanted to learn about at a later date. I guess I need grease for the CV joints (may as well do the wheel side as well, right?), got the final drive seals already (and the pan gasket, though do I need that?), gear oil, what else? Torque converter to final drive seal, flanges for the cv, governer seal?... what?

On 5/21/16, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote: > I think you really should pull the whole unit. It's tricky enough puting > the two sections back together when they are both on the shop floor. It > would be impractical (IMHO) to do this under the vehicle, especially for > someone unfamiliar with the task. > Taking the final drive off the engine lets you replace the seal where it > receives the torque converter, which should be done anyway. > > You should at least have a floor jack of decent size and whatever wood > assembly is needed to let it hold the unit. A 2X4 across the engine > compartment with a giant eye bolt will let you support the back (front?) of > the engine and lower it a little when needed. When you are under there > steadying things as the unit separates from the engine you need a helper to > control the jack. > > Great fun. > Larry A. > > > On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 3:12 PM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote: > >> This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to >> hear. Thanks. >> >> > Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section. >> >> Oooh! But... >> >> > The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly. >> >> Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and >> isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right? >> >> > Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque >> converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one. >> >> That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that >> ends my easy tranny removal already though. >> >> > Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body. >> Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the >> kits. >> >> Where though? Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from >> a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order >> pistons as required when I have a look inside. >> >> > There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the >> differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the >> correct thickness. >> >> Choose? I found exactly one. Things of variable thickness in the >> manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive >> housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the >> thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims! >> ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find >> those? >> >> > Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the >> differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You >> will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements. >> >> ugh. I will look. >> >> K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no >> choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the >> end. >> >> >> > > My first question, to the amazing people of this group: Can I remove >> ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter >> attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft >> can >> just slip on and off. >> >

-- There's no .sig like the present


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