http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of C. Abney
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 8:46 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
I knew I was buying in to a maintenance issue, but I thought I'd chosen a good starting point. *sigh*
On 5/22/16, Scott <SCOTTDANIEL@turbovans.com> wrote:
> Projects have a way of expanding like this.
> Sure happens to me a lot ....
> I'll go to work on one broken thing and end up addressing lots of
> related things.
>
> Except for parts that take a while to get ..ones I know I'll need and
> there's a time factor in getting them, sure I order those in advance..
> otherwise ..I just take things apart, then get all the greases and
> fluids and all that.
>
> the differential pan gasket ..
> if you are wanting to avoid having the project expand too much, you
> can do that later with no real penalties , if you don't mind working
> under a car.
>
> the outer CV's ...sure if you undo the inners ...add grease to those ..
> then you'll want to do the outers too, altho ....if I was not certain
> the auto trans repair would 'stick'
> ...i.e. be successful ..
> I would do the basic minimums to get to the point of driving again.
>
> Sounds like you're going to have quite a bit of things that are new
> territory to you ..
> I'd suggest do just what you need to , heck ..there's risk your trans
> is not that easily repaired, to the point of not being a useable
> core..
> so get right at the trans ...pull the whole thing as suggested.
>
> automatic transmissions ..
> there's a good reason they are usually worked on by shops that
> specialize in transmission repair and rebuilding ..quite complex, lots
> of things need to be really right.
>
> get that sucker out and apart in the most direct manner I suggest.
> Let us know what you find.
>
> Good used ones are not that common in my experience.
> I bought one used one once..they said ..'yep, we know that one is good
> ..it drive fine a couple of years ago.'
> Not !
> barely would jam or jerk in reverse . Wouldn't go that's for sure.
>
> The next used one I got was ok ..bought a whole vanagon with an engine
> problem to get that one.
> And ......my old bad auto trans was worth more as a rebuildable core
> than I paid for that whole van.
> So I made a couple hundred bucks and got a good used trans.
>
> Still got the van ..a running 'very no-rust at all' ' 85 tin top with
> good body, converted to manual trans..
> weird paint job....tan with horizontal stripes ... I'd sell it for not
> much. Located So. Oregon.
>
> Scott
>
>
>
>
> On 05/21/2016 07:01 PM, C. Abney wrote:
>> No choice, then. I didn't want to. The Torque converter, the
>> differential, and the CV joints are all things I wanted to learn
>> about at a later date. I guess I need grease for the CV joints (may
>> as well do the wheel side as well, right?), got the final drive seals
>> already (and the pan gasket, though do I need that?), gear oil, what else?
>> Torque converter to final drive seal, flanges for the cv, governer
>> seal?... what?
>>
>> On 5/21/16, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I think you really should pull the whole unit. It's tricky enough
>>> puting the two sections back together when they are both on the shop
>>> floor. It would be impractical (IMHO) to do this under the vehicle,
>>> especially for someone unfamiliar with the task.
>>> Taking the final drive off the engine lets you replace the seal
>>> where it receives the torque converter, which should be done anyway.
>>>
>>> You should at least have a floor jack of decent size and whatever
>>> wood assembly is needed to let it hold the unit. A 2X4 across the
>>> engine compartment with a giant eye bolt will let you support the
>>> back (front?) of the engine and lower it a little when needed. When
>>> you are under there steadying things as the unit separates from the
>>> engine you need a helper to control the jack.
>>>
>>> Great fun.
>>> Larry A.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 3:12 PM, C. Abney <tsudonimh@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want
>>>> to hear. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>>> Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.
>>>> Oooh! But...
>>>>
>>>>> The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.
>>>> Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
>>>> isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?
>>>>
>>>>> Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque
>>>> converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.
>>>>
>>>> That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even
>>>> that ends my easy tranny removal already though.
>>>>
>>>>> Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body.
>>>> Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in
>>>> the kits.
>>>>
>>>> Where though? Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings
>>>> from a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will
>>>> order pistons as required when I have a look inside.
>>>>
>>>>> There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the
>>>> differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose
>>>> the correct thickness.
>>>>
>>>> Choose? I found exactly one. Things of variable thickness in the
>>>> manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive
>>>> housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought
>>>> the thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
>>>> ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i
>>>> find those?
>>>>
>>>>> Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the
>>>> differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal.
>>>> You will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.
>>>>
>>>> ugh. I will look.
>>>>
>>>> K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no
>>>> choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the
>>>> end.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>> My first question, to the amazing people of this group: Can I
>>>>>> remove
>>>> ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter
>>>> attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump
>>>> shaft can just slip on and off.
>>>>
>>
>> --
>> There's no .sig like the present
>>
>
>
--
There's no .sig like the present
