Date: Sun, 22 May 2016 10:44:26 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
In-Reply-To: <CALsWj8=Sjg_4S86MFv+Mm24Ehgv_aUmkG4T=ZMMRg3=3uBh3mw@mail.gmail.com>
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The difficulty is if you need to rotate something to line up the splines. If you miss the cast pump drive will be damaged. Then when you start the engine the pieces will destroy the pump and get into the valve body and torque converter.
Keep in mind that once you open this up and do internal damage you won’t even have an acceptable core to use for buying a rebuild.
I've been doing this along time and I still make mistakes and yes have tranny rebuilds go bad.
And trust me, do the pistons! Nothing like having the reverse one tear a year down the road.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of C. Abney
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 3:12 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: 090 (automatic) transmission questions
This is good stuff, even though there are some things I don't want to hear. Thanks.
> Yes it is possible to only pull the auto section.
Oooh! But...
> The long pump shaft is an issue though on re-assembly.
Bentley shows an image of the pump shaft protruding when it is (and
isn't) properly seated. That's enough to go by, right?
> Since there are pieces it is likely some pieces are in the torque converter. You want to pull it and get a rebuilt one.
That hurts. No way to open it up and fish them out? Ah, but even that ends my easy tranny removal already though.
> Busted bushings and maybe piston rings on the direct drum, pump body. Get the pistons, direct, forward, and reverse. These do not come in the kits.
Where though? Some other thread mentions getting correct o-rings from a hydraulics parts store, what about NLA bushings? I will order pistons as required when I have a look inside.
> There is also a thrust washer between the reverse plate and the differential input shaft. You have to do some measuring to choose the correct thickness.
Choose? I found exactly one. Things of variable thickness in the manuals that i could find were shims for the tranny/final drive housing joint, and the pressure plate in the clutch... I thought the thrust washer was standard sized. Oh, that's... you mean the shims!
ok. I didn't find anything like that even at makco. Where can i find those?
> Since the trans was likely overheated you probably want to do the differential seals especially the inner ones and the governor seal. You will need a press for the direct clutches and the bushing replacements.
ugh. I will look.
K thanks for your help, Dennis, and thanks to everyone. There's no choice about me doing this, I just hope I have a running car at the end.
> > My first question, to the amazing people of this group: Can I remove ONLY the transmission, leaving the final drive and torque converter attached to the crank/engine block? Seems to me like the oil pump shaft can just slip on and off.