Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 19:15:49 -0700
Reply-To: Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Remove Brake Caliper: Steering Knuckle Off Vehicle
In-Reply-To: <CAB2RwfiOhCxaB=t1kDsz3eFiTvcTQTrR5BOy953SdxcwX036oQ@mail.gmail.com>
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yeah...
you can just route the new flex hoses through that 'tunnel' area on top
of the fuel tank.
Havn't done it, but should work just fine.
oh...all right.....I4 jetta engine.
lol....I can sure say that VW has about 5,000 different belt and pulley
setups on their inline four gas and diesel engines.
You want the later Serpentine Belt arrangement really.
oh..Inner race moving on spindle ..
that fit there is always just a nice slip-on fit. Has to be.
I havn't had any issues about it not being a proper feet there.
Though odds are no one ever touched that part of that van unless it was
getting new front discs..
perhaps once in the life of the van.
Usually not a problem area in my experience.
btw...and fwiw ...'most of the time' on anything I take apart that has
grease in it...
'barely enough' grease was used in the first place.
I don't know if grease evaporates over time...but I've sure seen a LOT
of front wheel brgs and CV joint boots with barely enough grease in them.
"Mostly' easy-outs have never worked for me ..
but one time a couple of years ago, two broken off exhaust studs in a
Factory Euro TD Syncro Vanagon ( that turbo-down-at-the-end of the
manifold deal is rough on the studs ) ..
too extreme patience to drill EXACTLY down the middle of each stud ..
then drill out until not much was left ..mainly just the threads..
the Freeze and then a left hand easy out ...that was sure rewarding.
'the trick' is getting the hole started on center ...
if you get that ...the rest is just patience ...
what I call 'dental work.'
And that was laying under the van working above ..
your job will just be on the bench ..piece of cake.
it's just metal ....Patience is your main tool/weapon/tactic in a case
like this.
On 6/21/2016 2:14 PM, Neil N wrote:
> Very helpful info Scott.
> I didn't know about the lack of hole at frame. I assume my 81 doesn't
> have that.
> Maybe more work than it's worth to convert to PS. But, I would install
> new flexible hoses.
> Good to know they would address that lack of hole issue.
> Need to figure what I need for the Jetta engine in terms of
> pump, brackets, interfacing hoses etc.
>
> my concern re the bearing race is that it **might ** have a tendency
> to spin on the spindle.
> For sure, no. The race won't turn in the hub! ;)
>
> I'll try that "freeze" stuff. I've good success with Kroil penetrating
> fluid though. Will drill and try a reverse tap bit am not holding my
> breath and I sure don't want to render the caliper unrebuildable by
> screwing up the bleed screw hole threads.
>
> On Tuesday, June 21, 2016, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@turbovans.com
> <mailto:scottdaniel@turbovans.com>> wrote:
>
> HI ,
> re "a punch mark or twomight suffice to keep a bearing race from
> turning. "
>
> if you really mean the bearing race ..the part pressed/tapped into
> the hub ..
> that sure better NOT be turning in the hub !
>
> a great trick btw..for driving in bearing races. Take an old
> bearing and grind down the outside so it's an easy slip fit into
> the hub.
> Then use that as a driver to tap in the new race.
> If you really want to get fancy, weld a handle onto it.
>
> want to buy a good used bleed screw ? I save that kinda stuff.
> Lot of bother to ship such a silly little thing of course.
>
> I'd say a broken off bleed screw should be fairly easy to extract..
> just don't drill down to the sealing surface.
> I've had great luck with "Freeze" spray juice and an easy out .
>
> on retrofitting PS ..
> you'll find that in 84 VW put a notch/cut out in the frame for
> the PS pipes to pass through ..
> on the inner frame rail ..near the filler neck area roughly ..
> fuel tank has to be out to get to that area..
>
> plus if wanting to use all original parts you need the pipes and
> lines too, not just rack and PS pump and rez.
> It would be handy to just buy the full-length hose kit that
> vendors sell, by passing that notch-in-the-frame issue.
> But yeah ..PS is nice, not that the early vans don't do pretty
> well without it.
>
> I
> On 6/21/2016 8:30 AM, Neil N wrote:
>> Well,.....
>> The bolts came off without too much effort.
>> Yes I'm sure folks were dying to know this. LOL
>> Point is, it's possible to remove the calipers with knuckle removed
>> from the vehicle.
>>
>> Thankfully, the bearing race (journals?) show only minor wear, if
>> that; a little corrosion "staining" at each inboard journal, some wear
>> at an outer bearing journal. If needed, I'm sure a punch mark or two
>> might suffice to keep a bearing race from turning.
>>
>> Heck. Even the large Phillips head screws at each splash guard came off easily.
>>
>> Sadly, a caliper bleed screw is sheared off and won't come out. I was
>> planning to rebuild these caliper so myself but will leave that to the
>> pros.
>>
>> I may install power steering if I do this swap. That'll be interesting. ;)
>>
>> Neil
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, June 19, 2016, Neil N<musomuso@gmail.com>
>> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','musomuso@gmail.com');> wrote
>>
>>
>>> With the lower ball joint end of the steering knuckle mounted securely
>>> in a large vice,
>
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
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