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Date:         Tue, 28 Jun 2016 02:17:09 +0000
Reply-To:     den jolliffe <sondancer77@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         den jolliffe <sondancer77@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Problem with push rod tube seals?
Comments: To: Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <f192921b-9186-43fa-1977-ce1850eea390@turbovans.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I'm totally with you on OE parts being re-used on a rebuild if they are clean and non wear related... These tubes are stainless originally..sure they have a seam, and must be positioned with the seam up...I can't count how many leaking tubes I have had to replace over the years with the seam facing down... Same goes with rings.."my engine burns oil"...I get it apart and the oil scraper is facing down on 3 of the 4 cylinders and the other rings aren't positioned correctly either...no wonder it burns oil...when did you change the oil last "I do it once a year, I only drive it in the summer"... OK, I'm on a rant today...poor quality assembly makes me pi$$y, I must be getting old...LOL Den.

On Monday, June 27, 2016 7:19 PM, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> wrote:

fwiw, I can't get too into this theory on the metal of the tubes not being malable anymore or whatever was said in the vein.

I've used hundreds and hundreds of those push rod tubes over on VW oppssed engines.. and don't think I've ever had a problem with the tube itself .   I don't re-use beat up ones of course .. and I'm real careful about the angle they are at on the ends where the seals go., like rotate the tubes before head is fully tightened down.

I use my fav Permatex High Tack gasket sealer on both sides of the seals.

I have stretched the tubes much too far a few times ...and even that doesn't cut or squish the seals.

oh the spring loaded ones ...I only use those if I have to. They can leak at the sliding junction .. then I have to goop them up there to not leak. They are for 'repair' only...like to replace a tube without removing a head.

Personally ..I far more trust 'good ol' good used tubes' then I might new ones. Very strong chance new ones are not made as well as ones made say 20 yrs ago.

lol..I trust 'good used parts' a lot more than new ones sometimes. 'All New' in my opion is just asking for issues. I'll take 'good serviceable original type parts' ( on non-wear items ) any time.

I've noticed over thousands of jobs .. they don't really remember too much about what it cost for the repair .. what they notice FOR SURE is when the repair doesn't last or work out.

Seriously ..it's been studied even ...'cost' per se, is not the top priority for most customers.. a few tight wad types, sure .. but for 'normal good people' ...the long lasting nature of the repair is By Far their Main Concern, not the initial dollar cost.

and if anyone ever tries to talk ya into a cheap repair, or using cheap parts, or worst of all Their Cheap Parts... good bye ! Don't need that kind o' aggravation at all !

Scott

On 6/22/2016 11:04 AM, kenneth wilford (Van-Again) wrote: > That sounds like a reasonable explanation.  I can see how they would get > work hardened when they are restretched and we did reuse > good used ones on this rebuild because it was a few years ago and there > were no new tubes available at the time.  Now I can get them again fairly > cheaply so I would use new no matter what.  I did just this on a cylinder > head replacement job we just did.  I hate when reusing old parts comes back > to bite you in the butt.  Usually when you are doing it to save the > customer some money too. > > Ken > > On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 12:57 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Wow, that's an odd one.  I have to contribute my 2 cents worth on this >> just for fun.  I'll bet the old pushrod tubes are the problem, not the >> seals.  They may get less malleable as they  age, and after stretching them >> for reuse they may not have the flexibility they once had, and that leads >> to too much pressure on the seals. >> >> I assume you'll replace these tubes with spring loaded ones, and I doubt >> you will have any problems with them.  You may want to replace the pushrod >> tubes with new ones on all your rebuilds now. >> >> Stuart >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf >> Of kenneth wilford (Van-Again) >> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 9:03 AM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Problem with push rod tube seals? >> >> So I have been using the Victor Reinz and or the Erling complete engine set >> for years and years to on rebuild engines and cylinder head jobs.  We have >> done so many over the years with no real issues.  However the last two >> engines we rebuilt started having problems with oil leaks from the push rod >> tube area not long after we rebuilt the engine (probably 2000 miles >> range).  I just had one of the customers in here this morning and it seems >> like an issue with the push rod tube seal itself.  The small end ones >> seemed to be expanding and trying to squish out around where they seal to >> the interior of the engine under the valve cover.  One was so bad that it >> cut in half and the other two on the opposite side of the engine were just >> starting to emerge and do the same kind of thing.  Not all of the seals >> were doing this, the large end seals which are made of the same material >> were fine and most of the other small seals seemed to be fine.  Anyone else >> have a similar issue lately?  I am just wondering if it is an isolated >> problem or something I should call my supplier about?  I think the kits we >> have used lately have all been the Victor Reinz ones if that helps out. >> >> -- >> Thanks, >> Ken Wilford >> John 3:16 >> www.vanagain.com >> > > > -- > Thanks, > Ken Wilford > John 3:16 > www.vanagain.com


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