Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 12:42:22 -0700
Reply-To: Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: GOWESTY AFM no start problem
In-Reply-To: <C9F05D16-A642-434B-989D-0E3A0D7D88C3@gmail.com>
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No need for anything too fancy in the timing light IMO.
They're all inductive type now, just clip the clamp over # 1 cyldiner wire.
I share another quite good method...but don't tell anyone !
as it's unorthodox.
with the engine warmed up and idling smoothly, and the distributor loose
enough to turn it with your fingers..
while idleing ...turn dist counterclockwise to advance the timing ..
rpm will go up as you advance timing and then after a point ..it doesn't
increase anymore..
that's very advanced...like more than 30 degrees...
you think ..'ok..that's WAY too advanced' ..
then turn it clockwise until it's obvously way too retarded ...idle will
be real slow.
do that a couple of times back and forth until you know where the
extremes are, then put the distributor right in the middle of those two
extremes.
This works amazingly well on engines with turn-the-distributor timing
adjustment.
In the case of a waterboxer ..when I got the timing dead in the middle,
I'd rotate clockwise just a bit ...like 1/4 inch .... it should be
pretty close to zero degrees on a 2.1/2.2 I'd think.
resist any temptation to smooth out the idle by running base the timing
too advanced.
The other idle factors have to be working and adjusted about right..
Throttle switch makes contact at idle for sure.
Air idle screw is working on the throttle body and nit at either extreme
in or out.
AFM mixture screw is happy
no intake leaks ,
no 'false air' leaks ....( leaks between AFM and throttle body )
I got a new 2.1 Hall Sensor to install myself.
and ...
hope to get it on theSamba today ..a new-in-the-box Bosch made in
Germany Hall Sender for a 1.9 wbxr. for sale.
any hall sender that is original and now 25 to 30 years old ..totally
suspect and due to be replaced.
Scott
On 6/30/2016 9:42 AM, Dennis Jowell wrote:
> Hall sensor is installed, Westy starts up, which is a bonus for me.
> Now to do the timing of the WBX. I found my old timing light from Sears 1971 vintage I suspect it's NG.
> I'm headed down to my Sears store for a new Craftsman timing tool.
> Any suggestions on the type I should get? Not to many choices here where we live. Sears is a 90 miles round trip.
> It has been a long time since I timed any engine with a light. My several old VW bugs I timed using a 12 volt bulb and a pair of alligator clips.
> Also a little confused on the process of timing the 2.2 WBX engine.
> Any suggestions? or thoughts?
>
> Dennis J
>
> Dennis Jowell
> Scotch Hollow Farm
> Newbury, Vermont
>
>
>> On Jun 28, 2016, at 12:35 PM, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Way to go!
>>
>> the pin on dizzy is not too hard to remove. Here's a pic of what I did:
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/hg2jaqp
>>
>> its just a piece of annealed copper pipe. I supported other end of
>> dizzy with piece of wood.
>>
>> Are the small wires inside dizzy, to hall, at fault?
>>
>>
>>
>>> On 6/28/16, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I found the problem! Worn out Hall Sensor. I added a zip tie to the plug on
>>> the distributor not the harness. Starts right up. Thanks to the suggestion
>>> from a Van Cafe old time mechanic and Chris their customer service person.
>>> I have a new Hall Sensor ordered. Should have it here at the farm this
>>> week.
>> --
>> Neil n
>>
>> Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca>
>>
>> 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy>
>>
>> 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>
>>
>> Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>