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Date:         Sat, 2 Jul 2016 17:36:59 -0700
Reply-To:     "C. Abney" <tsudonimh@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "C. Abney" <tsudonimh@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: GOWESTY AFM no start problem
Comments: To: Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
In-Reply-To:  <9e30d2af-0e1e-732c-0cbe-b3eefb37a238@turbovans.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

1. hall sender 2. pcb on the ecu 3. Ignition switch

One of those is failing. At least, according to someone on thesamba...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=654850

On 7/2/16, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: > well there ya good.. > two methods...one by Bentley/VW and one by GW that built the engine, > plus a suggestion to add a degree or two for being a little above sea > level. > > What I suggest ..is just do what the engine builders said to do, like > the poster did, > and just drive it a while and see how it goes. > The way you did it was jut fine. > a degree to two here or there at 3,000 isn't going to matter much IMO. > > The comment on disconnecting the Temp Sensor and setting timing at idle > rpm is worthwhile. > > what I would do ...AFTER confirming that things are about right with > GW's method ... > and driving a week or two .. > then I'd try the Bentley method and see if there was any difference in > advance at 3,000 rpm. > > oh...while I'm here.... > on my newly installed Digifant sytsem on a 2.1 wbxr engine ( which ran > on stock 85 Digijet for a while ) , > I how have a jumpy tach on start-up and shut down. > Happens with two different Digifant ECU's and two different distributors > ..and one coil I tried. > > thoughts or suggestions invited. > > I can try another tach easily enough ...and other than this tach > jumpiness at start and shut off no other symptoms. > Runs strong ... > even pulling 4,000 rpm in top gear going slightly uphill, and returning > 19 mpg. > 87 octane or premium doesn't seem to make any difference. > Timing is zero at idle rpm, temp sensor connected . Running very > strongly, real pleased with it. > > On 7/2/2016 8:54 AM, Dennis Haynes wrote: >> Part of the spark plug circuit includes the current goes from the center >> electrode to the outer ground electrode. Ground or eventually chassis >> being a key. As such the timing light should be connected to the vehicle >> power supply so that it is also connected to the same common as the >> ignition system, including the spark plugs. You can easily connect the >> timing light to a chassis ground somewhere and get power off the >> alternator terminal. The degree delay function only works by time delay >> versus speed and is a very crud indication or measurement. Someday I will >> figure out why some folks think it is better this way than to follow the >> Bentley. The Digifant modifies the timing curve based on coolant temp so >> part of the procedure is to disconnect the temp 2 sensor to go into a >> default and set the timing at idle speed. >> >> Dennis >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of >> Dennis Jowell >> Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2016 11:22 AM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Re: GOWESTY AFM no start problem >> >> My old timing light was D.O.D. , Had to purchase a Craftsman Sears timing >> light Hopefully I used it correctly! >> Here is what I did >> GOWESTY has a template to mark the pulley at 35 degrees which I used. >> I used an extra 12v battery connect to the timing light Warmed engine to >> running temp. >> Set the new "Advance Timing Light" to zero Used the onboard tach to read >> 3000 rpm Adjusted timing to line up with the new 35 mark on the pulley. >> My concern is that I didn't adjust the timing to far advanced so I ruin my >> 2.2 Westy engine Any thoughts or suggestion before I drive it out for a >> test run? >> >> At 3000 rpm timing is set at 35 degrees this is what GOWESTY suggests with >> the "Advance Timing Light" >> >> Dennis J >> >> >> Dennis Jowell >> Scotch Hollow Farm >> Newbury, Vermont >> >> >>> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:09 PM, Scott - IMAP <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM> >>> wrote: >>> >>> good point. >>> This reminds me ...think I read that GW specifies 35 degrees advance >>> at >>> 3,000 rpm for their 2.2. >>> something like that. >>> and is another way, besides initial timing ..of adjusting timing. >>> >>>> On 6/30/2016 11:49 AM, Neil N wrote: >>>> Congrats. >>>> >>>> Your timing light may well be fine. >>>> >>>> The old Bug 12 volt bulb technique was used for static timing; get >>>> timing close to correct so engine will at least start. >>>> As dizzy is turned, points close/open, light goes on/off. >>>> Once static timing set, an actual timing light is used. >>>> >>>> I can't speak directly to the 2.2 WBX but for the 2.1 there's the >>>> Bentley method or, a "full advance" method; all parts remain >>>> connected, engine is sustained to higher RPM, timing set to ~ 35ยบ >>>> BTDC That spec is shown P. 28.41 in my Bentley. >>>> >>>> My guess is that the full advance method has been posted about here. >>>> >>>> Neil. >>>> >>>>> On 6/30/16, Dennis Jowell <dennisjowell@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hall sensor is installed, Westy starts up, which is a bonus for me. >>>>> Now to do the timing of the WBX. I found my old timing light from >>>>> Sears 1971 vintage I suspect it's NG. >>>>> I'm headed down to my Sears store for a new Craftsman timing tool. >>>>> Any suggestions on the type I should get? Not to many choices here >>>>> where we live. Sears is a 90 miles round trip. >>>>> It has been a long time since I timed any engine with a light. My >>>>> several old VW bugs I timed using a 12 volt bulb and a pair of >>>>> alligator clips. >>>>> Also a little confused on the process of timing the 2.2 WBX engine. >

-- There's no .sig like the present


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