Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2016 15:20:39 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Idle stabilizer control
In-Reply-To: <BAY405-EAS2725250DEB7C3E94F8024EFA03D0@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Actually, that is what it's doing. First it goes up then drops back slowly
to about 200 above idle without. Haven't tried a cold start yet. Will be
interesting to see what it does. Cooling down to ambient now.
John
On Jul 9, 2016 15:13, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> 1,500 rpm with the AC on is not a working stabilizer. Especially with an
> automatic. When the AC or Power steering is activated there should be a
> very short burst but then speed feedback should get it back down to maybe a
> 100 to 200 rpm increase if any at all.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of John Rodgers
> Sent: Saturday, July 9, 2016 3:50 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Idle stabilizer control
>
> What I finally did: I found that th socket in whick the contol box fits,
> come right out with wires attached. There is a mounting block attached by
> two screws to the sheet metal on the wheel well. This block is not intended
> to be moved, but it can be. Not neccesary most times however. The block is
> keyed so that keys on the receptacle with cable attached can be lifted out.
> Once done, you have the cable, the receptacle and the stabilizer in your
> hand. They may be difficult to separate, but with judicious handling it can
> be done. Plugging the stabilzer box into the recepticle can be a chore..I
> was unsble to get the blades of the stabilzer to recess all the way. Had
> about 1/16" gaposis left. I finally took some rubber-like 1" tape and
> applied to the front and sides over the gap.on the back, there was little I
> could do. Left the gap there uncovered. Put the box and plug in place,
> installed the tail light fixture. Turned on the ignition and checked the
> stabilizer valve. It was humming nicely. Started the engine, let it idle a
> bit then raised the rpm. The stabilzer system worked, as the system held
> rpm at 1200 to 1500 rpm with the AC on and running,
>
> I didn't check the power steering aspect of this.
>
> Next project - (1) try and get the tach on line (works sometimes -
> sometimes not), (2) troubleshoot the cruise control and repair/adjust it.
> (3) install sound deadening material (3M) in the engine compartment.
>
> John
> On Jul 9, 2016 13:52, "Stephen Engel" <sengel543@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > I have the same problem. I was thinking weather resistant duct tape.
> > It's really difficult to manipulate the tape in that confined space
> > though. A big blob of dielectric grease? Seal the whole "chamber"?
> >
> > Steve
> > 87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > > On Jul 9, 2016, at 1:16 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > I am replacing the failed unit, but find that the new unit won't
> > > seat all the way. Has about a1/16th or so gap from being fully
> > > seated. This
> > exposes
> > > it to moisture.
> > >
> > > Anyone have any ideas as to how to seat the thing in the socket?
> > >
> > > John
> >
>
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