Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2016 13:44:10 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Starter related question.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I have actually had better luck with starters and alternators from Napa and AutoZone than with the Bosch units.
Dennis,
From my phone.
________________________________
From: Angus Gordon<mailto:birdworks@GMAIL.COM>
Sent: 7/15/2016 1:24 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Subject: Re: Starter related question.
For what it's worth, and this is a sample size of one, I put a cheap Autozone rebuild into my Syncro about 2 years ago and it continues to work fine. I think it was about $65 US at the time, with no core required.
Angus
> On Jul 15, 2016, at 6:20 AM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA> wrote:
>
> Dennis:
>
> The GoWesty starter is nice, but almost $500 CAD by the time it gets here. I can get a Bosch SR0408x plus adapter and relay for about 50-60% of that amount. Granted, the WBX prolly doesn’t need the cranking power of the diesel starter and the lower power draw of the GW starter would be nice, but …. I just bought an LT and have made an offer on a 1.6TD Westy … while $200 on a starter is a small saving, I’m sure it will need to be spent elsewhere.
>
> I see other aftermarket starters for sale, but am loath to try one.
>
> Roy
>
>> On 15-Jul-2016, at 09:51, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>>
>> No need to remove the throttle body, but removing the boot helps to reach that nut. The GW starter is also a great option and the better solenoid eliminates the benefit of adding a helper relay.
>>
>> Dennis,
>> From my phone.
>> ________________________________
>> From: Roy Nicholl<mailto:RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA>
>> Sent: 7/15/2016 7:17 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Subject: Re: Starter related question.
>>
>> That was my assessment of the situation. I was a little confused by the “remove the throttle body”, then I realized he was talking about going at the starter from the top. I plan to tackle it from underneath.
>>
>> Once I have confirmation the starter is indeed dead, I am debating a shift to a TDi starter (SR0408X) w/ adaptor, rather than another WBX starter. It still looks like I should have room to install the larger starter without having to remove an axle.
>>
>>> On 14-Jul-2016, at 21:54, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> If It Is a 2WD there is no reason to remove anything other than the Cables & SecuringBolts ~
>>>
>>> Access is QuiteGood from DownUnder, Preferably with the BackEnd Up On Ramps ~
>>>
>>> Battery Should, OfCourse, be disconnected 1st ~
>>>
>>> ORR ~ DeanB
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 14 Jul , 2016, at 3:46 PM, C. Abney wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Things you have to remove to pull the starter: the battery
>>>> ground(:-*), and (probably) the throttle body. At least, doing that
>>>> makes removing that long hex head screw easy.
>>>>
>>>> I don't think you have to remove the axle. I can't say for sure
>>>> though, because when I removed the starter on my vanagon I had already
>>>> removed the axles.
>>>>
>>>>> On 7/13/16, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
>>>>> All,
>>>>>
>>>>> Tuesday morning we had a “no crank” situation in the Hyena (’88 2.1 WBX) and
>>>>> were “late for swimming lessons” as I shifted the kid pod from the Westy
>>>>> back to "Mom’s car”.
>>>>>
>>>>> My multimeter and kit is at another location - I’ll fetch it on Friday - but
>>>>> today at lunch I had 15-minutes so I pulled the plug off the ignition switch
>>>>> and stuck a strand of 14/2 Nomax between 12V and 50. I head what sounded
>>>>> like the solenoid “slam” into place, but only the once. I then went aft
>>>>> with my stand of 14/2 and bridged #50 at the solenoid … nothing.
>>>>>
>>>>> Batter seems fine … according to the simple meter on the charger … will
>>>>> measure this again with multimeter.
>>>>>
>>>>> So it is looking like the {original} starter has packed it in … I’ll go out
>>>>> on Saturday morning with the meter just to make certain I’m getting all the
>>>>> required voltage at all the required places.
>>>>>
>>>>> While I was under there, I noted there is nothing attached to #16 on the
>>>>> solenoid … isn’t there suppose to be a connection to the ignition system
>>>>> (coil) here?
>>>>>
>>>>> Let’s assume I need to replace the starter.
>>>>> 1) Do I really need to disconnect the right axle to do this {as I was told
>>>>> over the phone today}? It looks like I should be able to get at all the
>>>>> bolts (after a little cleaning) … not as easy as the ’66, but should be
>>>>> possible.
>>>>> 2) Is there an improvement that can be made over the OEM starter? {i.e.
>>>>> something like a starter from a mk2 jetta i4 that is cheaper to procure}
>>>>> 3) Is a rebuilt starter worth the cost savings (50%)?
>>>>> 4) Was there any significant change in the starter over the years? The
>>>>> Hyena is a 1988, but I know of a possible ’84 donor nearby.
>>>>>
>>>>> I also noted a couple more ground straps that need cleaning/attention
>>>>> (including the one between the solenoid and starter) … I’ll take care of
>>>>> these before ordering a new starter. I’ve never had a starter fail
>>>>> completely w/o any prior warning before, so I’m not 100% convinced I do not
>>>>> have another notoriously bad ground/earth.
>>>>>
>>>>> I may as well use this as an opportunity to remove all that current from the
>>>>> ignition switch and install some additional relays.
>>>>>
>>>>> Roy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> There's no .sig like the present
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