Date:         Fri, 15 Jul 2016 20:17:50 +0000
Reply-To:     Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Checking output of alternator.
In-Reply-To:  <009f01d1ded4$4584f730$d08ee590$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Could it be brushes in alternator are worn out?  Might partially explain squealing and not making enough voltage.
Rich
San Diego

      From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
 To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
 Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 1:05 PM
 Subject: Re: Checking output of alternator.
   
Bad alternator or slipping belt. Check that before you replace it.

Stuart

-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Jowell [mailto:dennisjowell@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 12:18 PM
To: Stuart MacMillan
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Checking output of alternator.

With load alternator is 14.4 then it started to make loud squealing noises
VOM went down to 13.8 if I accelerate to 3000 rpm's volts jump between 13.4
-14.4 but not all the time.
Conclusions?

Dennis Jowell
Scotch Hollow Farm
Newbury, Vermont


> On Jul 15, 2016, at 2:15 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Alternator is bad, given everything you've said.  Test under load with
> the headlights on and heater fan on, should be over 13.5 minimum,
> looks like yours isn't.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dennis Jowell [mailto:dennisjowell@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 10:47 AM
> To: Stuart MacMillan
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Checking output of alternator.
>
> Just got back from a test ride. I checked the output of the alternator
> at idle its 14.1 at the stud positive and grounded on engine frame and
> stays there at high rpm. Yesterday I installed a new battery, changed
> it to 13.5 volts, drove 75 miles, new battery is now at 11.9-12.3.
> Engine is at running temp. I have no idea where to go now. I thought
> the 5 years old battery was DOD so,I changed it. All cables and wire
> are tight on battery and alternator. All have dielectric on them.
> Help! Any thoughts where or what I should look at?
>
> Dennis Jowell
> Scotch Hollow Farm
> Newbury, Vermont
>
>
>> On Jul 14, 2016, at 12:40 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> You need a high end tester/charger for this.  Parts stores and Sears
>> repair shops will test it for free. Should have a minimum 75% output
>> with headlights lights and heater fan on. Alternatively, you can
>> measure the voltage at the alternator under this load.  Ideal output
>> should be 14.2 volts, but 14 is typical. If 13.2 or less I consider
>> it
> junk.
>>
>> I've replaced two recently that tested 25% with Bosch rebuilds from
>> my local supplier (who could also switch the pulley for me), one of
>> which tested at 50% when installed.  They replaced it. It's just the
>> poor QC of rebuilds, so test your "new" alternator too.
>>
>> Stuart
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
>> Behalf Of Dennis Jowell
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 9:11 AM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Checking output of alternator.
>>
>> After driving my Westy to Middlebury, Vermont area decided to visit a
>> historical site in town. Westy started slow but it started back to
>> the
> farm.
>> Stopped at another state park and had some lunch. Westy now won't start!!
>> Ugh! I used the aux battery to get it going and got home. Main
>> battery is new. I suspect the alternator is NG. Once again trying to
>> understand the Bentley test procedures on Pg. 27.18. What is "
>> connect alternator/regulator tester" ?? All I have is my digital ohm
>> meter. Is that what they are saying ?
>>
>> Dennis J
>>
>> Dennis Jowell
>> Scotch Hollow Farm
>> Newbury, Vermont
>>
>