Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (July 2016, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 14 Jul 2016 22:01:44 -0700
Reply-To:     Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Starter related question.
Comments: To: OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@comcast.net>
In-Reply-To:  <212E9CEC-F0D0-41FC-B1DF-750C987C4D38@COMCAST.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Try replacing the banjo fuel lines on a Ford powerstroke..... I gave that task about a week, laying on my stomach with my legs kicking out of the hood and I still couldn't do it.... They sell an $800 kit to avoid the whole weird stock set up that I gave up on fixing and did some creative bypassing...it is Friday now... On Jul 14, 2016 8:29 PM, "OlRivrRat" <OlRivrRat@comcast.net> wrote:

> That's Good to Know (although I'm not clear on why it's funny) ~ > I've actually not had the "privilege" of > > having to change a starter on a Syncro & Hope I never do as I have heard > it's NotFun ~ > > > On 14 Jul , 2016, at 7:11 PM, den jolliffe wrote: > > > Funny thing is..my buddy had a starter failure middle of winter a few > years back on his 88 syncro...nobody said I had to remove the axle, and > altho it was tight, I did manage to change it on my back, in 6" of snow in > full winter apparel...we did get it up on cement blocks on the passenger > side, but it did get changed...LOL > > > > > > On Thursday, July 14, 2016 8:54 PM, OlRivrRat <OlRivrRat@COMCAST.NET> > wrote: > > > > > > If It Is a 2WD there is no reason to remove anything other than > the Cables & SecuringBolts ~ > > > > Access is QuiteGood from DownUnder, Preferably with the BackEnd Up On > Ramps ~ > > > > Battery Should, OfCourse, be disconnected 1st ~ > > > > ORR ~ DeanB > > > > > > On 14 Jul , 2016, at 3:46 PM, C. Abney wrote: > > > > > Things you have to remove to pull the starter: the battery > > > ground(:-*), and (probably) the throttle body. At least, doing that > > > makes removing that long hex head screw easy. > > > > > > I don't think you have to remove the axle. I can't say for sure > > > though, because when I removed the starter on my vanagon I had already > > > removed the axles. > > > > > > On 7/13/16, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote: > > >> All, > > >> > > >> Tuesday morning we had a “no crank” situation in the Hyena (’88 2.1 > WBX) and > > >> were “late for swimming lessons” as I shifted the kid pod from the > Westy > > >> back to "Mom’s car”. > > >> > > >> My multimeter and kit is at another location - I’ll fetch it on > Friday - but > > >> today at lunch I had 15-minutes so I pulled the plug off the ignition > switch > > >> and stuck a strand of 14/2 Nomax between 12V and 50. I head what > sounded > > >> like the solenoid “slam” into place, but only the once. I then went > aft > > >> with my stand of 14/2 and bridged #50 at the solenoid … nothing. > > >> > > >> Batter seems fine … according to the simple meter on the charger … > will > > >> measure this again with multimeter. > > >> > > >> So it is looking like the {original} starter has packed it in … I’ll > go out > > >> on Saturday morning with the meter just to make certain I’m getting > all the > > >> required voltage at all the required places. > > >> > > >> While I was under there, I noted there is nothing attached to #16 on > the > > >> solenoid … isn’t there suppose to be a connection to the ignition > system > > >> (coil) here? > > >> > > >> Let’s assume I need to replace the starter. > > >> 1) Do I really need to disconnect the right axle to do this {as I was > told > > >> over the phone today}? It looks like I should be able to get at all > the > > >> bolts (after a little cleaning) … not as easy as the ’66, but should > be > > >> possible. > > >> 2) Is there an improvement that can be made over the OEM starter? > {i.e. > > >> something like a starter from a mk2 jetta i4 that is cheaper to > procure} > > >> 3) Is a rebuilt starter worth the cost savings (50%)? > > >> 4) Was there any significant change in the starter over the years? > The > > >> Hyena is a 1988, but I know of a possible ’84 donor nearby. > > >> > > >> I also noted a couple more ground straps that need cleaning/attention > > >> (including the one between the solenoid and starter) … I’ll take care > of > > >> these before ordering a new starter. I’ve never had a starter fail > > >> completely w/o any prior warning before, so I’m not 100% convinced I > do not > > >> have another notoriously bad ground/earth. > > >> > > >> I may as well use this as an opportunity to remove all that current > from the > > >> ignition switch and install some additional relays. > > >> > > >> Roy > > >> > > > > > > > > > -- > > > There's no .sig like the present > > > > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.