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Date:         Fri, 15 Jul 2016 20:17:50 +0000
Reply-To:     Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Checking output of alternator.
In-Reply-To:  <009f01d1ded4$4584f730$d08ee590$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Could it be brushes in alternator are worn out?  Might partially explain squealing and not making enough voltage. Rich San Diego

From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 1:05 PM Subject: Re: Checking output of alternator. Bad alternator or slipping belt. Check that before you replace it.

Stuart

-----Original Message----- From: Dennis Jowell [mailto:dennisjowell@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 12:18 PM To: Stuart MacMillan Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Checking output of alternator.

With load alternator is 14.4 then it started to make loud squealing noises VOM went down to 13.8 if I accelerate to 3000 rpm's volts jump between 13.4 -14.4 but not all the time. Conclusions?

Dennis Jowell Scotch Hollow Farm Newbury, Vermont

> On Jul 15, 2016, at 2:15 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com> wrote: > > Alternator is bad, given everything you've said.  Test under load with > the headlights on and heater fan on, should be over 13.5 minimum, > looks like yours isn't. > > Stuart > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dennis Jowell [mailto:dennisjowell@gmail.com] > Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 10:47 AM > To: Stuart MacMillan > Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Checking output of alternator. > > Just got back from a test ride. I checked the output of the alternator > at idle its 14.1 at the stud positive and grounded on engine frame and > stays there at high rpm. Yesterday I installed a new battery, changed > it to 13.5 volts, drove 75 miles, new battery is now at 11.9-12.3. > Engine is at running temp. I have no idea where to go now. I thought > the 5 years old battery was DOD so,I changed it. All cables and wire > are tight on battery and alternator. All have dielectric on them. > Help! Any thoughts where or what I should look at? > > Dennis Jowell > Scotch Hollow Farm > Newbury, Vermont > > >> On Jul 14, 2016, at 12:40 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com> > wrote: >> >> You need a high end tester/charger for this.  Parts stores and Sears >> repair shops will test it for free. Should have a minimum 75% output >> with headlights lights and heater fan on. Alternatively, you can >> measure the voltage at the alternator under this load.  Ideal output >> should be 14.2 volts, but 14 is typical. If 13.2 or less I consider >> it > junk. >> >> I've replaced two recently that tested 25% with Bosch rebuilds from >> my local supplier (who could also switch the pulley for me), one of >> which tested at 50% when installed.  They replaced it. It's just the >> poor QC of rebuilds, so test your "new" alternator too. >> >> Stuart >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On >> Behalf Of Dennis Jowell >> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2016 9:11 AM >> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Subject: Checking output of alternator. >> >> After driving my Westy to Middlebury, Vermont area decided to visit a >> historical site in town. Westy started slow but it started back to >> the > farm. >> Stopped at another state park and had some lunch. Westy now won't start!! >> Ugh! I used the aux battery to get it going and got home. Main >> battery is new. I suspect the alternator is NG. Once again trying to >> understand the Bentley test procedures on Pg. 27.18. What is " >> connect alternator/regulator tester" ?? All I have is my digital ohm >> meter. Is that what they are saying ? >> >> Dennis J >> >> Dennis Jowell >> Scotch Hollow Farm >> Newbury, Vermont >> >


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