Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2016 19:49:52 -0400
Reply-To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: dragging caliper
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Most likely you have ATE. For a complete caliper the only difference is the fluid connection. You will need a new line from the hose to the caliper. You will a real tight bend to clear the spring when the wheel is turned.
Dennis,
From my phone.
________________________________
From: Aaron<mailto:a.robinson.lists@gmail.com>
Sent: 8/15/2016 6:52 PM
To: Dennis Haynes<mailto:d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Subject: Re: dragging caliper
One flaps has rebuilt for $55 + $20 core. Just need to verify that I had girling and not ATE.
I'll follow up afterward to let everyone know how it goes.
> On Aug 14, 2016, at 6:25 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> An 85 should have the 2 piston calipers. No guide pins or floating
> assemblies. Rebuilt calipers are probably available through a local flaps
> and can probably get hem for under $100.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> Aaron
> Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 8:42 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: dragging caliper
>
> Cleaning may work. I'll bring some calipers just in case. I'm hoping to
> drive it back without any towing, but AAA+ if it's needed.
>
>> On Aug 14, 2016, at 10:13 AM, Larry Alofs <lalofs@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm not sure exactly which type of caliper you have on an '85 so I'll make
> general comments. There are two main spots where corrosion can cause a
> caliper to seize up; the piston itself and the caliper bolts or pins that it
> slides on. If the pins are sticking, but can be forcibly pulled out, the
> rust can be scraped and sanded away and the holles cleaned out. A round
> file may be helpful here. Relube with caliper grease.
>> A piston that is sticking can often be loosened up by simply moving it
> back and forth a number of times after appying some penetrating solvent.
> With the caliper removed from the disk, you can extend the piston by
> pressing hard on the brake pedal. You must prevent the piston from blowing
> out completely by placing pieces of wood of the proper thicknes where the
> disk would be.
>> Then shove the piston back in using a big C-clamp or welding clamp or a
> special tool baorrowed from your FLAPS. Repeat this process as many times
> as you have patience for. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the resevoir
> at the master cylinder, especially when pushing the pistion in.
>>
>> This sort of activity seemed to be needed about once a year back in the
> days that I drove Type 3 VWs here in the land of salt and rust.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Larry A.
>>
>>
>>> On Sun, Aug 14, 2016 at 12:22 PM, Aaron <a.robinson.lists@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>>> Hello all.
>>>
>>> I have an '85 sunroof "summer driver" (we're original owners) that mostly
> driven for summer berry picking excursions. It starts and runs fine, but
> last summer, after gassing it up and doing a couple of miles, I noticed a
> hot passenger wheel, which I believe was a dragging brake caliper. I just
> parked it and took another vehicle.
>>>
>>> It's berry picking duties are now over and I need to figure out how to
> move it 120 miles home after not being driven for 2 summers. What's the
> least expensive way to address the dragging caliper? I plan to move it and
> then decide whether to restore it or give it up, so I'm not looking to
> "invest" much into it.
>>>
>>> I'm comfortable with basic maintenance, but have never done more than
> pads/shoes/rotors/drums/flush on the brakes. Parts won't be available
> nearby, so I'd like to make sure I have what I need.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Aaron
>>
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