Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2016 16:03:36 +0000
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Clean inside instruments panel?
In-Reply-To: <009301d23134$5db30740$191915c0$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I too have rebuilt the crumbling corners with epoxy. You can simply wrap
packing tape around the corners in the shape you want and pour epoxy into
it. The adhesive makes a great mold release. Then drill for the self
tapping screws and reassemble. Not much trouble at all.
Jim
On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 11:00 AM Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I've done this with several clusters. You'll often find that the plastic
> corners where the instruments are screwed in are cracked or even completely
> disintegrated, and some of the corners of the instruments themselves are
> broken off. I've repaired the case with epoxy, and you can use washers or
> this kit if your instrument corners are broken:
> http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=23954 When you break
> the foil here's your best solution:
> http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=24189
>
> Usually it's the speedo with these problems because people push too hard
> on the trip reset. I even had one where the clear plastic was cracked there
> after the speedo was attached only by the top screws! Have fun with this
> can 'o worms. At least used clusters are available, and I've bought a
> couple to make one good one.
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Don Hanson
> Sent: Friday, October 28, 2016 7:47 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Clean inside instruments panel?
>
> Thanks
>
> On Oct 28, 2016 7:46 AM, "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Right, I just looked into my spares to make sure I was right about that,
> > and it is confirmed that if you pull the instruments out you heave nearly
> > full access to the besides of the windows.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 9:40 AM Edward Maglott <emaglott3@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I have done that and it makes a big difference! You have to take the
> > > speedo and tach or clock off the back.
> > > Edward
> > >
> > > On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 10:25 AM, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > So how do you get to the insides?
> > > >
> > > > On Oct 28, 2016 6:48 AM, "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I don't think it's possible to get those glued-in windows out. You
> > > should
> > > > > be able to wash and dry repeatedly to get most stuff out but that
> > > > obviously
> > > > > wouldn't work for everything that could possible get in there. I
> have
> > > had
> > > > > good luck doing it though. Cleaner and windex and repeated rinsing
> > and
> > > > > drying works pretty well to get rid of haze and insect parts.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jim
> > > > >
> > > > > On Fri, Oct 28, 2016 at 8:38 AM Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Is it possible to get at the clear plastic "windows" that protect
> > the
> > > > >> speedo and clock (mine is an 84 tintop body) ? Mine is kinda
> dusty
> > > > inside
> > > > >> but I don't want to break the tabs or anything... Thanks
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
| 
