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Date:         Sun, 4 Dec 2016 21:02:55 +0000
Reply-To:     Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
Subject:      Re: Headlight low beam failure
Comments: To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <000601d24e6f$c8faed30$5af0c790$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I am learning to add grease to electrical contacts whenever I work on electrical things.  Whether cheapo Harbor Freight LED flashlights, or Vanagon tailights connectors, or whatever.  Even my camera batteries.  Not only does it work good at preventing corrosion, but connectors now glide off and on easlly. Oh yeah....starter and house battery terminals too.

My rule of thumb is this:  for normal electrical contacts with WIDE spacing, use some grease; white lithium grease, Vaseline from the 99 Cents store, whatever.  Keeps corrosion at bay.  Never EVER had an issue. For TIGHT narrow-spaced electrical contacts like in the backside of a radio connector or something, then I will use a DI-ELECTRIC grease; I buy the little foil packets at FLAPS like O'Reilleys, transfer that into a plastic syringe, and then modestly apply grease to connectors. The purpose of di-electric (i.e. an NON-conductor) grease is to prevent communication between CLOSE terminals or connections; otherwise, you want the grease to not only prevent corrosion but also to aid the connection, that is slightly conductive. A classic example of where to use white lithium grease and NOT di-electric grease is on the horn ring on steering column; even though GoWesty says otherwise.  BTDT. In general, a "thin film" of grease is the answer...apply and wipe off excess....does SO much good at preventing corrosion and trouble-free operation.

RichSan Diego

From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Sent: Sunday, December 4, 2016 12:48 PM Subject: Re: Headlight low beam failure High resistance at the connector caused the overheating.  More current, loose contact in the connection, corrosion, etc.  It's highly likely you will not have any more problems with your fix.  This is a chronic problem on old MGBs with bullet connectors too, but they can be sanded clean and the female ends easily re-formed with pliers, but often they break from corrosion.  Gotta love the old car hobby, always something to do!

Stuart

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Alistair Bell Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2016 10:31 AM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Headlight low beam failure

I was a bit hesitant posting this in my blog, might be that I was pushing too many electrons through a connector pin. Or it might just be one of those self exacerbating connection issues. Either way I wasn't sure it would be helpful for others to see the failure.

Anyhoo, complete low beam failure caused by bad connector on back of fuse panel.

https://shufti.blog/2016/12/03/vanagon-headlight-low-beam-failure/

Alistair


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