Date:         Tue, 13 Dec 2016 03:06:20 +0000
Reply-To:     Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: It's not the way to do it ...
Comments: To: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <1DBFC1D0C3D74715B587C932CDE96DF3@ZoltanHP>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1256"

So you eliminated the TTS completely? Get the engine good and warm and then try to start it. Especially in warm weather. Once it floods out don't keep trying. You won't be the first to hydraulically lock the engine up. Then you go for a push start. Then depending on your luck you bust a piston or bend a rod or if you do the push start in reverse you may get to break the reverse idler. Yep, its all been done.

Dennis,
From my phone.
________________________________
From: thewestyman<mailto:zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sent: ý12/ý12/ý2016 9:29 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM<mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Subject: It's not the way to do it ...

Hi to all,

It’s an air-cooled.  Few things were Jerry-rigged on it.
I was trying to find why the wires don’t get power to the Cold start valve, checking the Thermo time switch, etc.  And then I see it’s Jerry-rigged and still it did not work.
So, I made my own plug for the Cold start valve, getting straight power from the Starter solenoid and the other wire to Ground.  I must say, I did not get 12 Volts but over 8 Volts done it and now the car starts cold too.
I know, it’s not how things should be done but by my logic, at least the Cold start valve now is working while one is winding the starter.  Once it has started, I don’t mind it does not spray anymore.  Yes, it would be nice if it would for a few more seconds but what the hell, it works as it is.  I’ll leave it like that for now.

Thanks for being with me.  And thanks to all of you who were trying to help in the process.
Zoltan