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Date:         Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:22:05 -0800
Reply-To:     thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject:      Re: To test a Thermo time switch, air-cooled
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <CY1PR20MB002949370A1414AA38CEDA2CA0990@CY1PR20MB0029.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original

As I was digging a little deeper into this van, I noticed, the cold start valve, csv, is directly connected to the solenoid on one end, the other end is to ground. That way, as I think, it will only work while one is winding the engine with the starter. That maybe enough. I think, this van has some wiring trouble. For one, the brown plug that goes to the Thermo time switch has no continuity as the other van I have has. And the blue plug that should go to the Cold start valve does not give me voltage either. I think, should show 12 or something that would open the injector. Zoltan

-----Original Message----- From: Dennis Haynes Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 7:03 AM To: 'thewestyman' ; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: RE: To test a Thermo time switch, air-cooled

The starting injector "Thermal Time Switch" is a bit of an interesting device. It is more than just a switch. It function is to operating the enrichment injector Based on engine/ambient temperature it turns on the injector for a determined time while the engine is being started. It gets its power-signal from the starter circuit, not the ignition.

The important part of TTS is that it has a heater in it. So while the engine is being cranked the heater will warm up which will open the switch. In moderate weather the enrichment vales will usually operate for only a few seconds. Continued cranking and even repeats this heater will disable the valve to prevent flooding.

The wiring to the TTS is critical. Yes, it does matter which wire goes to which terminal. Checking the switch with it closed both contact will show continuity to ground. Once open one will still be connected to the heater. The other will not. This is the contact that needs to go to the valve. It happens occasionally that the valve will get clogged. The switches rarely fail. I think the operation of this circuit may rely on a contact on the starter solenoid itself. There are many places in this circuit that may need to be checked.

From experience when I get these vehicles with cold start problems first I check the ignition, then next is compression/leak down. Loose heads or burned valves/dead cylinders is the cause more often than a fuel injection problem.

Dennis

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of thewestyman Sent: Friday, December 9, 2016 7:33 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: To test a Thermo time switch, air-cooled

Hi to all,

It is an old air-cooled engine. Has starting trouble cold. I am to test the Thermo time switch. I can’t find instruction in the “Bible”, only to test the wire that leads to it. That test says; your test light will light up when you turn on the starter. Fine. I only checked continuity there and it has.

Now, I just don’t know what it the best way to check the switch while it’s in the car. As You all know, it is under the air distribution box and other wires and the fuel lines are all in the way. Only with a long pair of pliers can I get the plug on or off. I imagine, the switch is to make contact and no-contact to close a circuit.

Question; what should the position be while it’s cold. Continuity or not.

Best wishes to all, Zoltan


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