Date: Mon, 2 Jan 2017 23:18:25 -0500
Reply-To: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David Beierl <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
Subject: Re: Dang driver lowbeam and front driver turnsignal
In-Reply-To: <CAOObvuNLS26LUiXuto_LhNjPgnM2WS5ZEAjqxVPsc6qwNcqmyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
For situations where you have some current flowing but there are excessive
losses, instead of measuring from your various wires to ground, measure
point-to-point along those wires and across connections, switches etc.
using your 200 mV or 2 V meter range. In an ideal circuit you would get
zero readings all along the length of both supply and ground wires, and
have the full battery voltage dropped across the lamp or other intended
load. In real circuits you'll lose perhaps a few millivolts across
connections and some amount along the length of wires; but the total losses
in the wiring for most 12V circuits should be less than half a volt or so.
Yrs,
d
On Sun, Jan 1, 2017 at 11:41 PM, C B <cunegonde.van.westfalia@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Thank you Dennis, I use a Klein MM700 meter for all electrical (and
> temperature or simple Hz!) checks. The idea of going through every light
> circuit wire looking at resistance is daunting, but you're right. I
> replaced several corroded or loose ground and fuse wire connectors, though
> the under dash headlight and turnsignal/parking lamp connectors seemed
> fine.
>
>
> I'll test the corner lamp sockets and pigtails to source any problems at
> that end. Cunegonde sat for several years and might have external
> electrical damage.
>
> The headlights have local bodywork grounds to bare metal with dielectric
> grease. There is continuity from those grounds to their bulb receptacles on
> each side of the van. So the problem is somewhere in the switched wiring. I
> really am stumped, but trying to avoid constructing and running new wires
> from the driver lamp to fuse, and fuse to back of switch.
>
> I need everything working and similar to stock, so I add my lighting
> high-power relays and SA inner lights. You may recall I put the word out
> for circuit diagrams and component lists to make the inner lights turn off
> both simultaneously or separately from the outers. But I'm not modding
> anything until I have stock functions.
>
>
>
> CUNEGONDE 1985.5 2,2l WBX 4sp Westfalia
>
>
> On Jan 1, 2017 19:43, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> I’ll ask for forgiveness in advance for sounding obnoxious. Besides
> changing parts did you consider using a meter? Each headlight high and low
> bam does have its own fuse, yes 4 fuses for the lights. They are after the
> switches in the headlight circuit. The turn signal sounds like a bad
> ground, probably at the socket itself. The 4 way flasher is not an
> independent circuit. The flasher will not flash unless it sees enough
> current being drawn for two bulbs. High resistance in the working or a bad
> bulb will prevent the flasher from working. This acts as an indicator of a
> turn signal being out. The 4 ways connect 4 lamps so if one or two were out
> it will still flash. Headlight grounds are also a common problem. There are
> grounding clusters above the fuse box. It is common for the quick slide
> connecters to both corrode and also break just from heat and age. As the
> headlights are higher current items new ground connections near the
> headlamps are a good idea.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
> C B
> Sent: Sunday, January 1, 2017 7:48 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Dang driver lowbeam and front driver turnsignal
>
> My driver lowbeam won't work at all.
> What didn't help:
> Swapped bulbs.
> Replaced turnsignal ring & stalk.
> Replaced dash headlight switch.
> Traced wires and pulled apart the fuse block and driver's side wiring stars
> connectors. (Should I try the passenger side one?)
>
> In addition, the driver front turnsignal stays on and won't flash whether
> just parking lamps, or either headlight combination is on.
> BUT the driver front flasher works in emergency 4-way flasher mode
> regardless of parking light/headlight configuration.
> I know the 4-way flasher is its own circuit, so where in the
> parking/headlight circuits are likely culprits?
>
> Other than that, Cunegonde finally home and ready for visual restoration.
> It's been a long several years since the engine debacle.
>
>
> CUNEGONDE 1985.5 2,1l WBX 4sp Westfalia
>
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