Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2017 18:31:19 -0800
Reply-To: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Easy way to tell which W.B...
In-Reply-To: <CY1PR20MB0029D62423F2522CF7B08729A07A0@CY1PR20MB0029.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
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Thanks... I did, before leaving WA. run the wheels in the air and listened
carefully, as well as backing the rear brakes off, ( for fine tuning,
bleeding and e brake adjustment) then wiggling and spinning the wheels by
hand, to see if I could feel any crunchy or undue play. I couldn't feel
much... But the stetescope is probably more telling, if only one bearing is
on it's way out, you're right, it'll make itself known that way...
I'll probably have the local tire guys impact the axle nut loose as I
have only a 'Bash Wrench' along, and no breaker bar for that... Thanks,
Dennis..
On Jan 14, 2017 6:07 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Get out the stethoscope of a large screwdriver and with the handle to your
> ear and the other end on the housing have the wheel spin under power and
> the bad bearing will make itself known. Might be worth going to a shop and
> letting them get it on a lift.
>
> Almost always bearing noises will change with speed and direction loading.
> Sometimes Especially with drum brakes brake application may also make some
> changes. Tires near the end of will also make more noise than usual. As the
> treads wear you lose that noise canceling cushion along with the tire work
> hardening. Rear wheel bearings last a real long time and when they really
> fail it is obvious. As for the axle nut loosening that does not indicate a
> bad bearing. When the set up is assemble the clamping forces go from the
> flange through the outer bearing race (which floats), through the spacer,
> than the inner bearing race and finally the face on the stub shaft. The
> only part taking the thrust load is the inner bearing race. Usually the
> axle nut coming loose is the result of a past repair where it was not
> torqued sufficiently. This will allow the shaft and hub to move in relation
> to each other wearing the splines. The usual fix is to replace the flange
> and probably the shaft. The other place the shaft can wear is where it is
> pressed into the inner bearing race. Yes, that should be a press fit. If
> the shaft can move freely in-out with the axle nut removed the press fit
> has failed.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Don Hanson
> Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2017 12:15 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Easy way to tell which W.B...
>
> ..Is going bad? I've done the right rear in the distant past... But quite
> a few miles ago... Lately I'm hearing some protest, rotation of
> wheels-related, (clutch in..No difference, turns no dectable difference,
> either)
> I have no idea which wheel it may be... I've lifted and done the
> push/pull, feel for play test, but they're similar feeling at the rear, the
> fronts feel correct and they rotate smoothly... I am pretty sure the fronts
> are fine...
> I am semi-remote and depending on only my onboard tools, but I can
> replace the rears OK, and I have one complete setup... I just don't want to
> start the wrong wheel, out bere on BLM ....Any "trick" to help me figure
> out the "most bad" bearing, so I can do it right here, rather than
> somewhere north, in the snow? thanks DH
>
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