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Date:         Sat, 21 Jan 2017 14:13:54 -0500
Reply-To:     Chris S <szpejankowski@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Chris S <szpejankowski@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Distributor rotor heat damage? (Solving intermittent engine
              stall)
Comments: To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAB2RwfhuyuAsddfUvWpuAWGnDrD9cO+hsPz1CGuMg7LDe0kDgg@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Neil,

Check distributor rotor shaft play. You will have remove the dizzy and check vertical play. Too much play will hammer bits into destruction.

Also, too little clearance will over hot said bits. It's easy to get the wrong cap/rotor button combo.

I have my eyes on the techtonics tuning dizzy made specifically for ABS block/1.8 head combos.

Chris

Dnia 21.01.2017 o godz. 13:20 Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM> napisaƂ(a):

> Thanks again Don and Dennis. > > I wondered if the rotor wasn't hear damaged. Normally, I keep the used > rotor in the bus as a spare. It may be there. Will compare. Will pick up a

> spare. > > Distributor was new at time of engine swap. I'd guess that swap for sure > has less than 100K miles on it. > > I will check for excessive play. Pretty sure sure I have a spar dizzy in > bus. Part of issue may have been corrosion at hall contacts at distributor. > Dizzy faces forward and may be exposed to moisture. I had slathered > dielectric grease at outside of dizzy hall connector some time ago. This > may not have done much to keep excessive moisture out. > > Neil > > On Friday, January 20, 2017, Don Hanson <dhanson928@gmail.com> wrote: > > I've forgotten exactly how the distributor shaft goes, but maybe that's >> loose... I recall there's a bevel gear that's driven off the intermediate

>> balance shaft... that may be loose somehow, allowing distributor shaft and >> the rotor to move up too tightly against the contact on the distributor >> cap... >> For my Franken-motor, I had to replace the distributor shaft bevel drive

>> gear with one that fits the ABA (2.0 l) intermediate balance shaft... That >> allowed me to keep my Digifant distributor (from the 1.8l inline ) and not >> change anything else from the Vanagon electrics or wiring harness, or the

>> head, and keep the body stock.. Didn't even have to re-time it.. >> I don't remember if you took all that stuff apart during your ABA >> install... Could be something to consider >> >> >> >> On Jan 20, 2017 2:35 PM, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com >> <javascript:;>> wrote: >> >>> Looking at that rotor you could have more than one issue. A question to >> be >>> answered is what caused the material to melt near the center contact? >> There >>> is no evidence of arching there, only at the outer blade. Some arching >> wear >>> there is normal. >>> >>> Is the engine getting so hot that heat transfer is melting the rotor? Or

>>> is the heat damage electrical? >>> Since this is an inline engine there is another possibility. The bushings >>> could be worn to the point the shaft has to much play. If I recall the >>> shaft is also supported by some shims including a fiber spacer under the

>>> rotor. Maybe this set up is damaged-missing making the gap for the >>> electrodes to great causing excess heat from the arching. I have seen >> these >>> distributors fail in this way. Pull it out and check it. Measure the >> rotor >>> height in relation to the cap. Check for excess paly or movement. >>> >>> Dennis >>> >>> >> >> > > -- > Neil n > > Blog: Vanagons, Westfalia, general <http://tubaneil.blogspot.ca> > > 1988 Westy Images <https://picasaweb.google.com/musomuso/New1988Westy> > > 1981 Westfalia "Jaco" Images, technical <http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/>

> > Vanagon-Bus VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>


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