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Date:         Mon, 6 Feb 2017 12:31:41 -0400
Reply-To:     Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA>
Subject:      Re: Thermal insulation for inside doors/panels
Comments: To: Toomey Douglas <drt@UOREGON.EDU>
In-Reply-To:  <FDB13F73-1EE2-4DA6-8EBF-6F2EE7BC3AA9@uoregon.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Doug:

A couple of things not covered in the link:

1) The claimed R value of Polyisocyanurate rigid insulation (typically R6 - R6.2 per inch) falls off dramatically in colder climates {i.e. where winter drops below -10C (14F) or lower} and the effective performance is around R4.8 - R5 per inch. If you live in a moderate climate or are insulating primarily to keep out heat, PolyIso would be fine.

2) Closed-cell polyurethane spray foam and most rigid foam panels (XPS, EPS, Polyisocyanurate) are flammable {rigid panels do have fire retardants mixed into their composition, but they still burn hot and emit fairly nasty fumes}. In building construction these insulations, when use internally, must be covered with a fire barrier - drywall or, for the spray foam, a thermal or (for internal, but uninhabited spaces) an ignition barrier.

If I were spraying the inside of my Westy or LT with closed-cell polyurethane foam, I would want a thermal barrier or, at the very least, an intumescent coating {ignition barrier} applied over the foam before finishing the interior. I would not be surprised if there are industry requirements for RVs in this regards … then again, I probably wouldn’t be surprised if there were not.

Though still costly, I would take a serious look at AeroGels - some of which perform better than the reference in the linked page.

> On 06-Feb-2017, at 12:06, Toomey Douglas <drt@UOREGON.EDU> wrote: > > Following is an informative link for insulating RVs. Discusses pros/cons and has a nice summary table. > > http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design-and-build-information-for-camper-vans/install-insulation/ <http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design-and-build-information-for-camper-vans/install-insulation/> > > Doug > > >> On Feb 5, 2017, at 10:23 AM, Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA <mailto:RNicholl@NBNET.NB.CA>> wrote: >> >> Vacuum insulation panels (R25 - R50 per inch) would give you the greatest thermal insulation, but they are expensive and all it takes is a screw through the encasement to loose the vacuum and your insulation. >> >> AeroGels (up to R20 per inch) can be available in flexible panels/rolls. They are more robust that vacuum insulation and more affordable - though still quite expensive. >> >> Though we normally thing of rigid insulation when we think about XPS (R5) or closed-cell foam (R5 - R6 per inch), closed cell foam can be found in flexible rolls - sometimes foil faced. This would be more cost effective than AeroGels. >> >> I would never use fibreglass batt, cotton/denim, hemp or cellulose insulation in a vehicle. You might get away with using rigid mineral wool panels (R4 per inch) which are more hydrophobic that fibreglass or cotton/denim, but you would obtain very little insulation in the cavity spaces available. >> >> >>> On 05-Feb-2017, at 13:58, Toomey Douglas <drt@UOREGON.EDU <mailto:drt@UOREGON.EDU>> wrote: >>> >>> Does any one have recommendations on thermal insulation for putting inside of door panels? I have removed the interior for body work and rust removal, which is done. We have used the camper for nearly 30 years of camping, so interesting to see that the factory installed fiberglass behind the kitchen unit did indeed absorb moisture and cause rust. Most of the rust to be removed was in that location, the lower panel. >>> >>> Currently installing Fatmat (cheaper on Amazon than GW) for sound deadening. Not planning on 100% coverage, more like 40% or so. Plus I am not sure this provides much thermal insulation. >>> >>> We camp in all weather in Oregon, so moisture/cold for sure, and heat in summer. Thought installing some thermal insulation would be a benefit, but after reading several threads on samba I am wondering what to do. >>> >>> Options: >>> >>> 1) Fiberglass. I won’t do this given what I found behind kitchen >>> 2) Denim insulation. I have to assume this will trap even more moisture than 1! >>> 3) Something like reflectix? But this is more for radiant heat and it may not have an airspace on both sides. >>> >>> Other options? >>> >>> Thanks! >>> >>> Doug >>> 87 Westy >> > > _______________________ > Prof. Douglas Toomey > 1272 Geological Sciences > University of Oregon > Eugene, OR 97403-1272 > > http://uoregon.edu/~drt <http://uoregon.edu/~drt> > http://geophysics.uoregon.edu <http://geophysics.uoregon.edu/> > (541) 346 5576 (tel) > (541) 346 4692 (fax) > ________________________ > > > >


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