Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2017 15:37:12 -0600
Reply-To: Jeff Palmer <w.jeff.palmer@ICLOUD.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jeff Palmer <w.jeff.palmer@ICLOUD.COM>
Subject: Re: Front heater motor
In-Reply-To: <0722457105154B448EB2D5216DECA2BA@ZoltanHP>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Wow Zoltan that is very reasonable. Where are you exactly :)
Thanks
Jeff
> On Mar 8, 2017, at 12:55 PM, thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET> wrote:
>
> I change the blower motor for 350 including the motor.
> Zoltan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bernie
> Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 7:56 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Front heater motor
>
> My heater motor is doing the same thing and only runs on maximum speed.
> If I may ask a stupid question how long can I expect it to
> run fine on maximum speed before giving out
> Lastly what can I expect a shop to charge for this work?
> Parts and labor.
> Thank you.
>
> Bernie
>
> On Tue, Mar 7, 2017 at 7:56 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> If you put a new motor in, it's not that much of a deal. The complicated
>> part to me was gettinh the dash off and back on gan and getting it all
>> hookedcup.
>>
>> On Mar 7, 2017 20:00, "Kk Al" <kkalnsf@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > Thank you all for the information. I think we are going to pull the dash
>> > ourselves as that seems pretty straight forward, but leave the heater
>> motor
>> > to the professionals. We can save a little cash and make sure it's done
>> > properly.
>> >
>> > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Keep in mind there is a slight difference in early and later model
>> > > installations due to changes in the Vanagon. On earlier models you
>> > > will
>> > get
>> > > to two upper mounting screws from inside the car with a long phillips
>> > head
>> > > I think or maybe a 10mm socket, don't remember but it needs to be
>> > > long.
>> > On
>> > > later models you will remove the grill and remove these screws from
>> > > the
>> > > outside of the car.
>> > >
>> > > Jim
>> > >
>> > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 2:58 PM Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@gmail.com>
>> > > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Here's another one:
>> > > >
>> > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yi4UNm9a9M
>> > > >
>> > > > Steven
>> > > > 91 Westy
>> > > >
>> > > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 3:56 PM, Steven Johnson <
>> sjohnso2000@gmail.com
>> > >
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > > Perhaps this might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?
>> > v=JTTtTODTF10
>> > > > >
>> > > > > Steven
>> > > > >
>> > > > > 91 Westy
>> > > > >
>> > > > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 3:45 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
>> > > > wrote:
>> > > > >
>> > > > >> Oh, and don't even think about pulling the heater box without
>> > > resealing
>> > > > >> the
>> > > > >> air flaps. You will think you are driving a new car...until the
>> next
>> > > > >> thing.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> If anyone can't find online instructions for pulling the dash,
>> email
>> > > me
>> > > > >> privately.
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> Jim
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 2:41 PM Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >> > as Jim said... drilling a Mullendory port is just a temp fix..
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> > the long way and best is removing the dash and replace the
>> motor..
>> > > and
>> > > > >> > since you're there... replace the clutch pedal too (if it's a
>> > manual
>> > > > >> trans)
>> > > > >> > sound deadening the front nose panel, lube the cables, repair
>> the
>> > > air
>> > > > >> > hoses, may be replace the heater core... and you're all set...
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> > yes long job but with BIG satisfaction
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >> >
>> > > > >>
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
>>
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