Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2017 10:55:32 -0800
Reply-To: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject: Re: Front heater motor
In-Reply-To: <CAKBchpos7Y6cyJG5_D5tRmMemX=verVt9B+ACmR541CmftV53Q@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original
I change the blower motor for 350 including the motor.
Zoltan
-----Original Message-----
From: bernie
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 7:56 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Front heater motor
My heater motor is doing the same thing and only runs on maximum speed.
If I may ask a stupid question how long can I expect it to
run fine on maximum speed before giving out
Lastly what can I expect a shop to charge for this work?
Parts and labor.
Thank you.
Bernie
On Tue, Mar 7, 2017 at 7:56 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you put a new motor in, it's not that much of a deal. The complicated
> part to me was gettinh the dash off and back on gan and getting it all
> hookedcup.
>
> On Mar 7, 2017 20:00, "Kk Al" <kkalnsf@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Thank you all for the information. I think we are going to pull the dash
> > ourselves as that seems pretty straight forward, but leave the heater
> motor
> > to the professionals. We can save a little cash and make sure it's done
> > properly.
> >
> > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Keep in mind there is a slight difference in early and later model
> > > installations due to changes in the Vanagon. On earlier models you
> > > will
> > get
> > > to two upper mounting screws from inside the car with a long phillips
> > head
> > > I think or maybe a 10mm socket, don't remember but it needs to be
> > > long.
> > On
> > > later models you will remove the grill and remove these screws from
> > > the
> > > outside of the car.
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 2:58 PM Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Here's another one:
> > > >
> > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yi4UNm9a9M
> > > >
> > > > Steven
> > > > 91 Westy
> > > >
> > > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 3:56 PM, Steven Johnson <
> sjohnso2000@gmail.com
> > >
> > > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Perhaps this might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?
> > v=JTTtTODTF10
> > > > >
> > > > > Steven
> > > > >
> > > > > 91 Westy
> > > > >
> > > > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 3:45 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > >> Oh, and don't even think about pulling the heater box without
> > > resealing
> > > > >> the
> > > > >> air flaps. You will think you are driving a new car...until the
> next
> > > > >> thing.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> If anyone can't find online instructions for pulling the dash,
> email
> > > me
> > > > >> privately.
> > > > >>
> > > > >> Jim
> > > > >>
> > > > >> On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 2:41 PM Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > > >>
> > > > >> > as Jim said... drilling a Mullendory port is just a temp fix..
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > the long way and best is removing the dash and replace the
> motor..
> > > and
> > > > >> > since you're there... replace the clutch pedal too (if it's a
> > manual
> > > > >> trans)
> > > > >> > sound deadening the front nose panel, lube the cables, repair
> the
> > > air
> > > > >> > hoses, may be replace the heater core... and you're all set...
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> > yes long job but with BIG satisfaction
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >
> > > > >> >
> > > > >>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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