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Date:         Wed, 8 Mar 2017 11:09:12 -0800
Reply-To:     bernie <1234bjs@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         bernie <1234bjs@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Front heater motor
Comments: To: thewestyman <zolo@foxinternet.net>
In-Reply-To:  <0722457105154B448EB2D5216DECA2BA@ZoltanHP>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

​Zoltan

I will email you.

Bernie​

On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 10:55 AM, thewestyman <zolo@foxinternet.net> wrote:

> I change the blower motor for 350 including the motor. > Zoltan > > -----Original Message----- From: bernie > Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2017 7:56 AM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Front heater motor > > > My heater motor is doing the same thing and only runs on maximum speed. > If I may ask a stupid question how long can I expect it to > run fine on maximum speed before giving out > Lastly what can I expect a shop to charge for this work? > Parts and labor. > Thank you. > > Bernie > > On Tue, Mar 7, 2017 at 7:56 PM, John Rodgers <jrodgers113@gmail.com> > wrote: > > If you put a new motor in, it's not that much of a deal. The complicated >> part to me was gettinh the dash off and back on gan and getting it all >> hookedcup. >> >> On Mar 7, 2017 20:00, "Kk Al" <kkalnsf@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> > Thank you all for the information. I think we are going to pull the dash >> > ourselves as that seems pretty straight forward, but leave the heater >> motor >> > to the professionals. We can save a little cash and make sure it's done >> > properly. >> > >> > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> > >> > > Keep in mind there is a slight difference in early and later model >> > > installations due to changes in the Vanagon. On earlier models you > >> > will >> > get >> > > to two upper mounting screws from inside the car with a long phillips >> > head >> > > I think or maybe a 10mm socket, don't remember but it needs to be > > >> long. >> > On >> > > later models you will remove the grill and remove these screws from > >> > the >> > > outside of the car. >> > > >> > > Jim >> > > >> > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 2:58 PM Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@gmail.com >> > >> > > wrote: >> > > >> > > > Here's another one: >> > > > >> > > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yi4UNm9a9M >> > > > >> > > > Steven >> > > > 91 Westy >> > > > >> > > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 3:56 PM, Steven Johnson < >> sjohnso2000@gmail.com >> > > >> > > > wrote: >> > > > >> > > > > Perhaps this might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch? >> > v=JTTtTODTF10 >> > > > > >> > > > > Steven >> > > > > >> > > > > 91 Westy >> > > > > >> > > > > On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 3:45 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com >> > >> > > > wrote: >> > > > > >> > > > >> Oh, and don't even think about pulling the heater box without >> > > resealing >> > > > >> the >> > > > >> air flaps. You will think you are driving a new car...until the >> next >> > > > >> thing. >> > > > >> >> > > > >> If anyone can't find online instructions for pulling the dash, >> email >> > > me >> > > > >> privately. >> > > > >> >> > > > >> Jim >> > > > >> >> > > > >> On Tue, Feb 28, 2017 at 2:41 PM Dan N <dn92610@gmail.com> wrote: >> > > > >> >> > > > >> > as Jim said... drilling a Mullendory port is just a temp fix.. >> > > > >> > >> > > > >> > the long way and best is removing the dash and replace the >> motor.. >> > > and >> > > > >> > since you're there... replace the clutch pedal too (if it's a >> > manual >> > > > >> trans) >> > > > >> > sound deadening the front nose panel, lube the cables, repair >> the >> > > air >> > > > >> > hoses, may be replace the heater core... and you're all set... >> > > > >> > >> > > > >> > yes long job but with BIG satisfaction >> > > > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > > >> > >> > > > >> >> > > > > >> > > > > >> > > > >> > > >> > >> >> >


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