Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2017 12:20:48 -0700
Reply-To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Followup to propane fill valve problems
In-Reply-To: <CAFnDXk2La8XzZvt9xsWtqaWxX2u8cBGnT27ERLvKgu3uU5d69g@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Very clever idea with the jack! You do need to remove the tank though to get the top valve off that's part of the auto stop system if you had that.
You need a double seal valve like this: http://www.regoproducts.com/lpg/lpg-nh3-products/products/7647.html Be sure to get the double seal, not a cheap single seal valve. You can get the yellow gas tape and gas sealing pipe dope from any decent hardware store, including Lowes and Home Depot.
My closest fill station has a large nozzle that hits the edge of the van and can't be tipped up enough to connect without an extension, but other's I've visited haven't had this problem. They all really like the extension though!
Apparently the Germans didn't use the same Manchester tanks with the auto stop valve I had in those days. For those who still have one, replace it for your own safety. They will eventually corrode to the point that they will not seal at all, or sometimes won't even open for filling. Good article here, but this valve was not corroded: http://arts-attic.com/blog/?p=279
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Jim Felder
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 5:19 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Followup to propane fill valve problems
Well I'm back home from my gas-less trip and today inspected the tank. Now I'm trying to figure out if some of the excellent comments I got in my original thread actually apply to me. Some of the things Stewart mentioned are of particular concern to me. Of course I have to keep in mind that on this list there are all the possible variations of years, countries of manufacture and subsequent modifications to take into account.
Someone mentioned that I would have to pull my tank. I was able t simply drop the rock shield from the tank, make a trip to harbor freight for a 1
1/2 inch open end wrench, put the wrench on the offending part and a jack under the other end. Jacking up the wrench provided an effortless removal.
Now I have the thing in my hands and it it obvious that it isn't closing right. I will look for a replacement tomorrow. Stewart mentioned that his replacement did not fit and required some sort of extension. I am hoping to find something of the exact same size to avoid that problem, and so far I can't see what the problem would be. Remember, Stewart, that I have a 1983 bought in Germany outfitted for the US market.
Another questions concerns the bleed valve. I would imagine that the roundly-despised auto-stop valve would be something with the usual autostop features--springs, a valve, valve seat etc. The item I removed has none of that. It's a fitting with a knurled knob that opens a sealed seat to allow gas to escape and nothing more. It seems I can assume there is nothing automatic about this totally manual release valve, so I intend on simply replacing it since it looks to be in nice shape and wasn't leaking before removal.
I will be looking for the proper teflon tape and dope when I get my valve.
Will that have this at a camper supply store, as I expect to find the fill valve, or is this something I need to go to a welding or plumbing supply store for?
Thanks in advance,
Jim
