Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2017 22:14:07 -0400
Reply-To: Roman Haag <romanhaag@YMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Roman Haag <romanhaag@YMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: CV joint maintenance/replacement question.
In-Reply-To: <CY1PR20MB0029A5A5ECD691F18CC8487EA01C0@CY1PR20MB0029.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
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I have GW lift springs and Bilstein shocks on my 2WD and my passenger side clicks all the time. It was just in right turns but you can faintly hear it all the time now.
In the morning I'm going to the shop as my mechanic tells me all I need do is chamfer the cv (cage?). Anyway, I already own the spare axel so he's gonna show me how and where to grind it and let me use his shop, under his supervision, and show me how to change it out.
Any opinions?
Thanks
Roman
Sent from someone's plumbing
> On Apr 22, 2017, at 21:33, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> A few thoughts here. CV joints with a little care should last a very long time. Although years have gone by "new" axles should not have to service at 20K mile intervals. At $85 for anew shaft you got junk or rebuilds and if they need to be replaced with so little mileage that was not a bargain.
> Next: As CV joints get used and break in or wear they get loser, not stiffer or binding. However when the vehicle is a lift and the suspension is hanging, the CV joints are positioned outside their normal range both due the distance increase the angle. It is not uncommon for them to become tight or not turn smoothly in this situation. From experience this is particularly common with the automatics. Also, some aftermarket shocks are longer than they should be. With enough extra length the CV joints are put out of their range enough that they can’t work properly.
> If you are not hearing noises now in normal operation I would only consider working on them if you know they have not been greased in many miles and/or the boots are torn. When replacements are needed it is money well spent to get new quality joints. You may find that the "new" drive shaft won’t take the OEM designed joints, BTDT!
>
> With new hardware and boots available pull them out, clean, inspect, and change those joints that need to be replaced. Sometimes only one or two fail. Beware of cheap bolts that come in some kits. I once had a set where the bolts failed on install. They just kept stretching. And use a torque wrench. Having them come loose can make for a bad day, especially of the loose bolts ruin the threads in the flange-hub.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Mark Hersh
> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 12:43 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: CV joint maintenance/replacement question.
>
> Good morning van folks,
>
> This year marks 40 years since my first VW; I think I've been under all six that I've owned, dealing with CV joints. Last time was a repacking in 2008 in a state park in Wyoming. That axle wasn't serviced anymore and has about another 20K miles on it.
>
> Our 2WD 1986 auto trans Weekender was in for some rear brake work and the mechanic said that both axles had CV joint issues:
>
> "Noticed upon inspection: right rear CV axle is binding and making noise.
> Left rear axle is starting to make noise also. Rec replacing both rear CV axles 3-9 months when start to hear clunking --both ok at this time."
>
> I want to do the work myself (as I've done axles before) I'm a little pressed for time because we have a road trip planned for mid-May and I'm out of town for a stretch before hand. My shop/garage isn't completely set up after a move (hence why the van went to the shop for what I consider to be very do-able rear brake work). I don't think I want to press my luck with noisy axles and a 5000 mile trip. But I think I can tackle this and get it done even though I don't move as well or work as quickly as I did (even in 2008).
>
> My left axle was bought at a FLAPS 14 years ago and has a "limited lifetime warranty" so theoretically I should be able to remove that axle, take it in and exchange it for a new (not rebuilt) one. If they honor the warranty, I'd get a free left and could get a new right axle for about $85. If they don't, my cost would be about $170 for two new axles. Go Westy has axles for $100, Bus Depot for $120 but I'd pay for shipping. None from the FLAPS (tax isn't an issue; I'm in OR).
>
> Van Cafe has four Lobro joints, four boots, grease, bolts for $265, Go Westy has 4 German joints with boots for $280.
>
> I saw a recent thread where folks were saying the aftermarket boots were the weakest link these days, which tilts me to doing my own with my spares and what is currently on the van. I have a couple (I think 3) joints I cleaned up and a couple boots, and maybe even some bolts.. I have two spare axles (AT needs different lengths) so I could assemble my own "rebuilt" set. If I need a joint or two I can get them (provided I can tell a good joint from a bad one), plus grease.
>
> But I was wondering if anyone was simply using axles from the FLAPS and having good or bad results.
>
> Thanks
>
> Mark
>
> 86 Campmobile Six-Seater "Monty"
>
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