Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2017 10:07:06 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <jrodgers113@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: CV joint maintenance/replacement question.
In-Reply-To: <CY1PR20MB00299CE80C9432E657B3B63CA01C0@CY1PR20MB0029.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
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Axles, boots and CV's is one area I try not to o cheap. Doesn't pay. Not
much ever happens to axles but perhaps wear on the splines. Getting good
boots these days is a problem, but I'm fortunate the have inherited "Uncle
Joel" Walkers whole cache of new genuine Volkswagen spare pares still
sealed in their boxes. There is a fair number of boot in that bunch. What
with running two vans I'm probably going to need them at some point. As for
CV's I have one set of the new ones still wrapped. My good fortune. But
given the tasks, the turning, the twistimg, the torque applied, the
precision machining required, the metallurgy on the steel , required to get
long life, I would to go with the best I could get. I'm really suspicious
of rebuilt CV's myself. Transaxle rebuilds with rebuilt CVs to my mind are
inferior, because to rebore them for new bearings slightly changes the
geometry as to how they work. In addition, I question the hardness of the
steel of drilled out areas. Where two steel surfaces come together that are
moving parts, the surfaces are often treated with an indusrial hardening
process called "nitriding" to make the surfaces harder. I doubt that is
done on rebored CV's. I've worked with that in the avation industy. It
increases reliability, and on thing for sure, you can't pull over and park
on a cloud when something breaks. On my van, I certainly don't want a to
have to pull over on the side of a backroad in a pouring rain at midnight
between Somewhere and Nowhere, Oklahoma because of a failed cheapie CV!!
Not my Idea of fun at all!!
John
On Apr 23, 2017 09:06, "Dennis Haynes" <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I can see chamfering the inner or outer races but not the ball cage. Also,
> why just the one side? If the noise is from the CV joints that will usually
> change with load. I would also check the wheel flange is not loosening.
> One of the considerations with "lifting" is the loss of wheel suspension
> drop. This can be critical especially during tire failure or rolling off
> onto a soft shoulder. This gets even more critical when running tires with
> tall side walls. Add enough of these changes and down on the side you can
> go.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roman Haag [mailto:romanhaag@ymail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 10:14 PM
> To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: CV joint maintenance/replacement question.
>
> I have GW lift springs and Bilstein shocks on my 2WD and my passenger side
> clicks all the time. It was just in right turns but you can faintly hear it
> all the time now.
> In the morning I'm going to the shop as my mechanic tells me all I need do
> is chamfer the cv (cage?). Anyway, I already own the spare axel so he's
> gonna show me how and where to grind it and let me use his shop, under his
> supervision, and show me how to change it out.
> Any opinions?
> Thanks
> Roman
>
> Sent from someone's plumbing
>
>
> > On Apr 22, 2017, at 21:33, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
> wrote:
> >
> > A few thoughts here. CV joints with a little care should last a very
> long time. Although years have gone by "new" axles should not have to
> service at 20K mile intervals. At $85 for anew shaft you got junk or
> rebuilds and if they need to be replaced with so little mileage that was
> not a bargain.
> > Next: As CV joints get used and break in or wear they get loser, not
> stiffer or binding. However when the vehicle is a lift and the suspension
> is hanging, the CV joints are positioned outside their normal range both
> due the distance increase the angle. It is not uncommon for them to become
> tight or not turn smoothly in this situation. From experience this is
> particularly common with the automatics. Also, some aftermarket shocks are
> longer than they should be. With enough extra length the CV joints are put
> out of their range enough that they can’t work properly.
> > If you are not hearing noises now in normal operation I would only
> consider working on them if you know they have not been greased in many
> miles and/or the boots are torn. When replacements are needed it is money
> well spent to get new quality joints. You may find that the "new" drive
> shaft won’t take the OEM designed joints, BTDT!
> >
> > With new hardware and boots available pull them out, clean, inspect, and
> change those joints that need to be replaced. Sometimes only one or two
> fail. Beware of cheap bolts that come in some kits. I once had a set where
> the bolts failed on install. They just kept stretching. And use a torque
> wrench. Having them come loose can make for a bad day, especially of the
> loose bolts ruin the threads in the flange-hub.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Mark Hersh
> > Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 12:43 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: CV joint maintenance/replacement question.
> >
> > Good morning van folks,
> >
> > This year marks 40 years since my first VW; I think I've been under all
> six that I've owned, dealing with CV joints. Last time was a repacking in
> 2008 in a state park in Wyoming. That axle wasn't serviced anymore and has
> about another 20K miles on it.
> >
> > Our 2WD 1986 auto trans Weekender was in for some rear brake work and
> the mechanic said that both axles had CV joint issues:
> >
> > "Noticed upon inspection: right rear CV axle is binding and making noise.
> > Left rear axle is starting to make noise also. Rec replacing both rear
> CV axles 3-9 months when start to hear clunking --both ok at this time."
> >
> > I want to do the work myself (as I've done axles before) I'm a little
> pressed for time because we have a road trip planned for mid-May and I'm
> out of town for a stretch before hand. My shop/garage isn't completely set
> up after a move (hence why the van went to the shop for what I consider to
> be very do-able rear brake work). I don't think I want to press my luck
> with noisy axles and a 5000 mile trip. But I think I can tackle this and
> get it done even though I don't move as well or work as quickly as I did
> (even in 2008).
> >
> > My left axle was bought at a FLAPS 14 years ago and has a "limited
> lifetime warranty" so theoretically I should be able to remove that axle,
> take it in and exchange it for a new (not rebuilt) one. If they honor the
> warranty, I'd get a free left and could get a new right axle for about
> $85. If they don't, my cost would be about $170 for two new axles. Go
> Westy has axles for $100, Bus Depot for $120 but I'd pay for shipping.
> None from the FLAPS (tax isn't an issue; I'm in OR).
> >
> > Van Cafe has four Lobro joints, four boots, grease, bolts for $265, Go
> Westy has 4 German joints with boots for $280.
> >
> > I saw a recent thread where folks were saying the aftermarket boots were
> the weakest link these days, which tilts me to doing my own with my spares
> and what is currently on the van. I have a couple (I think 3) joints I
> cleaned up and a couple boots, and maybe even some bolts.. I have two
> spare axles (AT needs different lengths) so I could assemble my own
> "rebuilt" set. If I need a joint or two I can get them (provided I can
> tell a good joint from a bad one), plus grease.
> >
> > But I was wondering if anyone was simply using axles from the FLAPS and
> having good or bad results.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Mark
> >
> > 86 Campmobile Six-Seater "Monty"
> >
> > Black dogs are euthanized at a greater rate than other-colored dogs,
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> http://www.blackpearldogs.com/ Learn about black dogs in a Vanagon at
> > http://www.pbase.com/mhersh/image/108220533
>
>
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