Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (May 2017, week 4)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Sat, 27 May 2017 17:15:45 -0400
Reply-To:     George Gaudette <gcgaudette@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         George Gaudette <gcgaudette@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Only 5V at Temp II sensor?
In-Reply-To:  <CAOXGjp=02ZOwTKqo7bSFa88reiJSatOnrb=w=80aVh_a0qPxSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

I failed to reply all -- sorry to David for the double post.

Also, I should add that the 67 ohms resistor is supposed to approximate the resistance produced when the sensor senses coolant at normal operating temperatures. More or less.

Now once more, with feeling...

Once Mark pointed out my mistake I disconnected the **correct** sender and found the positive wire broken at the spade, with lots of corrosion. With the wire stripped a little I got 9V to the brown wire's spade (tough to get the test lead to touch it well though) and 10V when grounding to a nearby ground strap instead.

I hooked up the "67 ohms" resistor that I fashioned and the temp needle moved for the first time in a long time -- slightly above dead center over the blinkenlight, which I consider normal.

Now I've gotta figure out how to get that orphaned spade out of the connector, or replace the connector. The back of the spade is completely corroded away.

Anyhow the problem is isolated, so I think I'm well on my way.

Thanks again.

On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:12 PM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks David! > > Once Mark pointed out my mistake I disconnected the **correct** sender and > found the positive wire broken at the spade, with lots of corrosion. With > the wire stripped a little I got 9V to the brown wire's spade (tough to get > the test lead to touch it well though) and 10V when grounding to a nearby > ground strap instead. > > I hooked up the "67 ohms" resistor that I fashioned and the temp needle > moved for the first time in a long time -- slightly above dead center over > the blinkenlight, which I consider normal. > > Now I've gotta figure out how to get that orphaned spade out of the > connector, or replace the connector. The back of the spade is completely > corroded away. > > Anyhow the problem is isolated, so I think I'm well on my way. > > Thanks again. > > -George > > On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 5:03 PM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> > wrote: > >> >> >> On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 2:45 PM, George Gaudette <gcgaudette@gmail.com> >> wrote: >> >>> Hi Volks, >>> >>> '90 water-cooled automatic camper here. >>> >> >> Thank you. :) >> >>> >>> My coolant temp needle stopped moving entirely some time ago. The >>> coolant >>> blinky light works normally (blinks initially on startup then goes out, >>> and >>> has recently blinked for low coolant level). >>> >> >> Good. Gauge doesn't have leaky timing cap, and coolant level controller >> is successfully simulating overheat in short pulses that activate the >> blinker but don't materially affect the gauge itself. >> >>> >>> ...which is to say I hoped to validate that the temp gauge is in working >>> order (including the wiring to it). >>> >>> The first thing to do was to check that there is 10V across those wires. >>> Instead I found there was about 4.9V. I tried with the negative lead >>> touching a ground point instead of the brown wire, and got 5.3V. >>> >> >> The ECU supplies five volts to Temp-II through an ?8132 ohm? resistor, >> creating a voltage divider with the variable resistance of the Temp-II >> sender. This however has nought to do wi' t'gauge -- the problem there is >> that one of the fly rods has outta skew on t'treadle. Or more likely that >> the sender or connector is open, of course. It's the black one around the >> corner from the blue Temp-II sender which is concerned strictly with engine >> operation. 265 ohms to ground should give you the bottom mark, 35 ohms the >> beginning of overheat zone and blinking light (light threshold is around 42 >> ohms IIRC). Grounding the sender lead should make the gauge go up like a >> slow rocket, and if you leave it connected, start smelling hot in a minute >> or two. No action means either a wiring problem between engine bay and >> gauge (but not the panel connector or panel wiring since the low coolant >> warning functions) or -- very very unlikely, the gauge heater has gone open >> or the needle suspension has failed. >> >> Yrs, >> d >> > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.