Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2017 11:25:05 -0700
Reply-To: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: refrigerator update
In-Reply-To: <CACvdLxNbWcP+qyNoBf5_GxOJ4xCBoSYT7h3FD3D2Q2rAdOqhXA@mail.gmail.com>
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To confirm, do not use teflon or other tape at threads of unions
involving a tapered fit. As you noted, that taper is meant to seal on
its' own. The tape can stop the nut from turning far enough which in
turn can prevent the face of the fitting from properly seating to the
flared end of tube. I do recall seeing some kind of grey pipe dope at
the threads of the union between fridge and supply line but that's a
distant memory. I've never had a leak at that union and have never
applied pipe dope to it when re installing my Dometic fridges over the
years.
Some have used red RTV in place of the seal at the combustion box. I
have too. No problem albeit a potentially messy job. There's info in
the archives on that I'm sure. On the 182B, that job is a little
easier. IMO, if the gasket is in good shape otherwise, I'd reuse it.
That part may even be available new? Frank Condelli rings a bell on
that account.
I'm trying to recall but that red fibre washer is shown as "G" in this image?
https://goo.gl/photos/MM1FPF5mfugiER3v8
I wonder if material suitable for engine exhaust manifold to block
could be made to work here? If you don't need to disturb that red
fibre gasket, I'd leave it alone. If I recall correctly, with either
the exhaust or intake sealed off, air can be pushed into the other
tube to test for leaks at combustion box, intake and exhaust tubes
etc. I recall David B commenting on that here, some time ago.
Personally, I'd be tempted to find a used Dometic and see if the tube
on that is ok. (spare parts too!) I'd also be tempted to see if some
kind of ultrasonic cleaning device could clean up that steel tube.
Neil.
On 6/30/17, David McNeely <davmcneely40@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I have the refrigerator out again and the steel propane line from the
> valve assembly to the burner removed. I found a place in Spokane (House of
> Hose) that says they "probably" can make a line in either copper or steel,
> if they can reuse the fittings from this one (hope, hope).
>
> While I have the thing out, any other suggestions? Can I get or make a
> gasket for the burner box? It seems to seal ok, but it is worn around the
> outer edges. Should I use gas tite teflon tape on the pipe joints? I
> realize the tapered fittings should seal. But, it looks like some sort of
> red dope was on the threads at one time. Also, the fiber washer (looks
> like fiber, anyway) on the orofice appears to have some corrosion stuck
> onto it. It is not a lot, but should I replace it? What size is it? I
> know, I can measure.
>
> The place I am taking the pipe for replication works only in English unit
> material, which makes it a bit questionable as to whether they can make my
> fittings work on their pipe. It is the only place I found that would even
> offer to try. I called four RV shops, three of whom said, "Thanks, but no
> thanks," so far as trying to do anything. The fourth offered to pull the
> refrigerator, diagnose the problem, for $120. They also said they cannot
> get parts for it, period, and will not attempt to make a pipe, if that is
> what it is.
>
> Can anyone with expertise perhaps offer advise? AB? Right now I am
> leaving to go to House of Hose.
>
> mcneely
>
--
Neil n
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