Date:         Sat, 9 Sep 2017 14:54:41 -0400
Reply-To:     Steven Shelton <shelton4@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Steven Shelton <shelton4@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Cold Idle Problem
In-Reply-To:  <CY4PR20MB13034314BD7D518C5B1512BFA0950@CY4PR20MB1303.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
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I decided to check and see if there were any deposits on the spark plugs.
They were tan to white, but the gap is closer to 0.038 than 0.028. They are
NGK's with only 18,000 miles on them, but I'll replace them.

I noticed that I could wiggle the throttle body up and down a little. Maybe
tightening that up will help (I replaced the gasket about 3 years ago). But
looking further at the throttle body I don't understand the function of the
lever at the top that connects to a long spring attached near the fuel
pressure regulator. I can move that lever clockwise about 1/2" and it
sticks. If I push it further and it returns, it's still about 1/4" from the
lever that the accelerator cable is attached to. Is this normal?

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 6:34 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Lots of folks have responded but I'm going to go back to the beginning to
> try to help.
> Most likely you really have an engine performance issue where you can’t
> get good power/response at idle or low speed. The stumbles and hesitation
> is not just a throttle or throttle bypass issue. Something else is wrong.
>
> A truly bad temp 2 sensor really shows u as a starting issues, made worse
> on a slightly warm engine. If it starts easily and then goes into closed
> loop O2 sensor control the temp 2 sensor is good.
> The Auxiliary Air Regulator, (AAR) is an extremely robust device. When
> they fail, they fail to close. It works with a combination of ambient and
> engine temperature and the electric heater is there to get it to close
> rapidly. Works similar to an electric choke. After an engine is started the
> combustion chambers warm up real fast along with the intake manifold near
> the head and fuel can vaporize and burn quickly after a very short time. In
> moderate temperatures the engine should be able to run with fuel enrichment
> or throttle bypass within a couple minutes. That heater in the AAR will
> close it fast. On a restart, if the head is warm at all the heat from the
> head will keep it closed. So, if it can’t idle by the time you get down the
> street in 80F weather, the AAR is not your problem.
> On the 1.9L the idle stabilizer is also there to help boost idle by
> advancing the ignition timing.
>
> Your idle speed may be set to low. Should be about 850 rpm on a warm
> engine. Follow the Bentley for the idle speed and ignition timing procedure.
>
> Poor engine performance after start and during warm up can be caused by a
> number of issues. Small vacuum leaks, bad injector spray patterns, carbon
> deposits on the back of the intake valves, bad valves, worn guides, any
> unbalanced engine condition, ignition system problems, etc. I would start
> there before blaming sensors or control devices.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of Steven Shelton
> Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 1:44 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Cold Idle Problem
>
> I really thought I had my cold idling problem solved when I found the
> elbow connector to the Auxilliary Air Regulator split at both ends. But
> after replacing it, the engine still stumbles and dies after driving and
> stopping about 1/2 mile from my house. Once it warms up, it's fine.
>
> As before, when I pinch the hose to the AAR, there is no change in the
> idle, which means there is a problem there but before I try to take a
> closer look, there was an unanswered in Samba about at what temperature the
> AAR works. Is it too warm for the AAR to function? The air temperature when
> I tested it was 77 degrees.
>
>
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