Date:         Wed, 13 Sep 2017 15:55:44 -0400
Reply-To:     Jeremy Stovin <jjstov@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jeremy Stovin <jjstov@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: Electric mayhem part 2
Comments: To: Gabriel Hourtouat <ghourtouat@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <CAA5Wjggm0MV8bi66jUvWwhaa-Q_eGqq-cfNReGFtQ4+GOH6YGw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 I'm good. All good advice. Started some advice from a knowledgeable person who accidentally said volts instead of amps and I went with it. 

I am pausing to clean up and organize the aux wiring as a whole and then tackle the draw, which I think is mostly coming from the radio. There is a 0.01 amp draw from the fridge, but I'll get to that after the stereo.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 13, 2017, at 1:03 PM, Gabriel Hourtouat <ghourtouat@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> 
> Jeremy,
> Where are you on this?  Are you sorted?
> 
> What Kim is saying is that the presence of potential (IE, voltage) doesn't

> mean there is a current flow.  It would, however, if that voltage was
> connected to ground.  Does it kind of feel like you're chasing your tale?
> Testing for current is a bit troublesome.  You need a meter that can
> measure AMPS and you need to open each circuit and insert the meter.
> 
> A better test is to use your meter check for CONTINUITY between POS and
> ground; and that failing to give usable information, check for resistance
> (ohms) to ground.
> 
> Tips:
> -Be methodical:  disconnect your battery and use the POS connections as
> your starting point.  Progressively isolate circuits until you find short.

> -If you disconnect the battery and test those big leads for a connection to
> ground and your meter says that there is no connection (no beeping in
> CONTINUITY mode and infinite resistance in RESISTANCE mode) then this
> method will not work for you.
> -Don't forget that some loads are always ON, like your clocks.
> -Use alligator clips or your jumper cables (IE massive alligator clips!) to
> connect one of your meter leads ground so you only have to deal with one
> lead at a time.
> -FREQUENTLY check that your meter and set-up is still working by touching
> your leads to a good ground.  Your meter should BEEP or read very low
> resistance (near zero ohms) when your set-up is correct.
> -If you find the short with the continuity feature, it is much easier
> because you get an audible response; but for a short which is making a weak
> connection, you may have to resort to the resistance feature (IE measuring

> Ohms).  This is more likely the case because if a POS wire is making a
> strong connection with ground, it would probably heat up, smoke, catch fire
> or at least blow a fuse.
> -You can also use your nose to find a short by sniffing around for that
> expensive burnt electronics smell -- we've all smelled it!
> -Use your eyes to look for discoloured, broken, crumbling wire insulation.

> .
> Let us know if this sounds like so much non-sense.  Maybe somebody can give
> you better instructions.
> 
> Maybe others even disagree with this method or have a better method to
> suggest.
> 
> gabby
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 2:15 PM, KIM BRENNAN <kimbrennan@mac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Volts doesn’t measure current (draw). You would want to put an amp meter
>> in between your positive post on the battery and one of the wires you have
>> connected to it normally, to identify where your mystery drain is coming
>> from.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 9, 2017, at 1:51 PM, Jeremy Stovin <jjstov@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
>>> 
>>> This is where I show you how much of an idiot I am but hopefully someone

>> will be patient with me and teach me what I'm doing wrong.
>>> 
>>> So to sum up where I am. I have something drawing power from the Aux
>> battery and currently my Aux batteries (3 wheelchair batteries) are dead. I
>> ordered replacements, which came but I ordered the wrong ones. So in the
>> meantime, I took one of the new 12v batteries to see if I could find the
>> draw.
>>> 
>>> Now I was going to try a modified version of the test of disconnecting
>> the ground and using a multimeter between the ground and neg terminal and

>> then remove fuses, etc.
>>> 
>>> Since everything is disconnected, meaning the multiple positive
>> connections that were attached to the positive terminal, I thought it may

>> be easier to try just one positive wire at a time. Connect the positive and
>> then test between the ground and neg terminal for Voltage.
>>> 
>>> Well, I tried this and it gives me the full 13v. So must be doing
>> something wrong.
>>> 
>>> Can someone please, gently, let me in on the obvious blunder?
>>> 
>>> Jeremy
>>> '87 Westy
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>