On 1/9/2018 8:54 PM, Neil N wrote: > I've been looking hard for a solution to my corroded O2, knock and crank > position sensor wires. I'm spoiled by my days in avionics vocational school and maintaining my own aircraft, so I use aviation wire in the camper. Here's a Tefzel shielded, three-conductor, shielded, 22 AWG wire, available for $1 per foot from B&C Specialty Products: http://www.bandc.aero/22awgshieldedtriowhitetefzelwire.aspx For signal wire, I expect 22 AWG is adequate. I've used it for an aircraft fuel flow and oil temperature sensor, for example. In the camper, I use shielded 22 AWG for the stereo and unshielded 22 AWG for the ammeter shunt. Tefzel is a much tougher outer jacket than you can get outside of aviation. We use it in aircraft engine compartments without further protection. When it runs near exhaust components or cylinder heads, we wrap it in firesleeve for extra thermal protection. B&C doesn't carry firesleeve, so here's Aircraft Spruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/hose_firesleeve.html B&C also sells terminals and splices of much better quality than available most places. These have a two-stage metal crimp, so used properly the conductor is captured, then the insulation is captured for strain and vibration relief: http://www.bandc.aero/electrical-terminals-splices.aspx And an inexpensive crimp tool that makes it easy to achieve gas-tight crimps for longevity, especially in the engine compartment: http://www.bandc.aero/pidgstylecrimptool.aspx I've met Bill and Celeste Bainbridge, who run B&C, and I like buying from them. It's fun to browse the rest of their web site. Need a lightweight alternator for your homebuilt aircraft? Regarding shielded wire, remember to always ground all signal shields at only one point. Signal shields should be grounded near the instrument (in this case, the ECU?), and left open at the sensor end. Shields grounded at both ends invite noise from a ground loop. Here's step-by-step instructions for creating a clean shield pigtail to crimp a connector on: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/pigtail/pigtail.html That approach is simplified by using solder sleeves. They can be expensive, but Digikey sells them in small quantities. Be sure to check the diameter of the sleeve against the diameter of the shielded cable plus a pigtail: https://www.digikey.com/short/q8phf1 |
Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of
Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection
will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!
Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com
The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.
Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.