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Date:         Tue, 17 Jul 2018 17:50:24 -0700
Reply-To:     Jeremy Stovin <jjstov@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jeremy Stovin <jjstov@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: More electric drama.
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <MWHPR20MB15515C1BC897E16543963630A05F0@MWHPR20MB1551.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Som progress,

1. The short is somewhere on the gray/red wire between that 7-pin connector I mentioned, and the E connector to the fuse panel. After that, I can’t access most of it. I’m giving up and taking it in somewhere.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 14, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote: > > The fuse for the right taillight also feeds the right rear marker light, front running light and possibly the license plate lights. I forget if the license plate lights are fed from the right or left side. Regardless, when id comes to lighting shorts, the bulbs and sockets/related wires are the usual first places to look. > > As for your battery combiner there are a number of different ways they can be designed to work. Most of the automatic voltage controlled types will work in either direction. So chassis alternator charges house battery and a charger or other source connected to the house bank can charge the chassis battery. Now here is where you have to know what you are doing if servicing a system with one of these. Once closed, the voltage that closed it is now on both sides of the controller. Even if you disconnect one of the battery banks the relay will remain connected until the one remaining bank voltage drops below the cut out. The cut out and cut in works over some range. So it would be common for it to combine at some voltage over 13, indicates a charging source is present. Remove the charge source and the relay may stay combined until the voltage drops below 12.6 or so, maybe even lower. So turning off the charging source such as the engine do not expect this type controller to immediately disconnect. There are a number of reasons for them to work this way some very beneficial. So when doing battery service all batteries need to have the grounds disconnected. > > Dennis > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> on behalf of Jeremy Stovin <jjstov@YAHOO.COM> > Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 4:29:36 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: More electric drama. > > I posted about this on Facebook, so I apologize for duplicating. > > I have two issues to discuss. I don’t think they are related, but what do I know. ‘87 Westy. > > Problem #1. Right tail light not working. It must be a short because the fuse in the fuse panel is blown. I put a new one in, turn on the lights and it immediately blows. It was suggested I unplug the 7-pin connectors in the junction box in the engine compartment and check that out. Still blows the fuse. So I am not sure where to look or how next. > > Problem#2 when exploring the wiring around the battery because I’m getting ready to install a battery monitor, I noticed my Yandina isolator was on. The green light, showing combined. I’m pretty sure it should not be doing that because the engine is off. The only thing I can speculate is that she is plugged into shore power and there is a battery power converter keeping the house battery charged. Could that be causing power to go in reverse and combine and charge the starter battery? > > Please keep in mind for those who do and don’t know me. I’m visual, so I can be slow for my brain to translate what you are describing into what I’m looking at. I have a Bentley and have a decent understanding of the wiring diagrams, but matching the diagram to what I’m seeing in the van is a bit slow. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jeremy and Lola > > Sent from my iPad


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