Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 21:02:49 -0700
Reply-To: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: thewestyman <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET>
Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat, workin on it.
In-Reply-To: <CAFnDXk26uE_mYwSeVWp2UnebnmDoNoUpdjvJ5M5z+wgw7imdJw@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original
I was working on it doing the following.
After running the engine little over 2000 rpm, doing the bleeding procedure
without success to have heat, noticed the reservoire getting more and more
full.
Stopped, waited to cool down to open the cap to change it for a new one.
After that started again, yet when I finished, I still had no heat.
Waited too cool again.
I had an idea; how about looking into the heater core supply lines and see
if there is any coolant? Took the glove compartment out, took the center
piece out to get to the hoses that work in the circulating system.
I found them totally empty. After doing correct procedure of bleeding.
So, I started filling up the hoses, pinching them off when full. And filled
the heater core with coolant also, using a small plug on one end that I
removed to let air out, but plugged in when full.
Replace the hoses onto the full, or almost full, heater core. Did the
procedure again and found no heat again.
That's how the work is standing now.
Zoltan
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim. Felder
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 11:35 AM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat
The Libby Bong is a great device. But every driver should know how to
properly bleed a Vanagon with their "bare hands." You never know when,
where nor why you will have to do it. You may not have your usual tools
with you.
Jim
On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 12:39 PM Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@gmail.com>
wrote:
> You are using a mini-Libby Bong method:
> https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/archive/index.php/o-t--t-234192--.html
> (unfortunately, the photos are gone, check other "Libby Bong" posts on The
> Samba for photos.) The Libby Bong is a 1 1/2" ABS pipe with a plumbing
> reducer to connect to the expansion tank in place of the cap. To avoid
> coolant flowing out of the pipe when removed, there is a 1/2" vinyl tube
> that goes into a hole near the bottom that acts as a drain went the top of
> the tube is lowered.
>
> If you are filling back though the cap that would be very slow, make a
> Libby Bong instead.
>
> Stuart
>
> I do the bleeding a little differently. Check it out if it's any good.
>
> Fill up the pressure tank as much as I can, engine running idle, put cap
> back on.
> Disconnect at the pressure tank the hose that goes to the bleed line, plug
> the bleed line and connect a yard long hose to the disconnected one, keep
> it vertical, have a funnel in it,open radiator bolt, keep on filling up
> the
> system with coolant until it comes out on the top of the radiator. Take
> the yard long vertical hose off, reconnect the disconnected hose to the
> bleeding line. Finished.
>
> Now, because the funnel is higher than the heater core, which is the
> highest part of the system, I assume the core is full because the heater
> hose is not closed by the thermostat.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Zoltan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim. Felder
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 8:53 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat
>
> You don't need to do anything with the hose coming out of the heater core.
> It won't do you any good as you can't use the connections to raise the
> coolant level, only to drain and lose it! You need to follow the procedure
> in the Bentley or the many variations written up on the Internet. They all
> involve getting the engine warm enough to open the thermostat, and keeping
> an eye on the tank level. After the car is warm--and with the heater valve
> wide open--loosen the bleed bolt from the top of the radiator. If you have
> a 2.1 you have a bleed valve on the thermostat housing that comes into
> play
> as well. Then you rev the engine to about 2000 with a wooden wedge, run to
> the front and back the bleed bolt out until you get a strong hiss of air,
> or else solid coolant--not a mix of coolant and air. You may have to
> remove
> the bolt all the way. Best to have someone else back in the back to keep
> an
> eye on the level in the tank, because this is the point where it falls a
> lot as the upper parts of the system are suddenly being filled by the
> action of the water pump. When the top of the radiator is warm to the
> touch
> and a solid stream of coolant is coming out of the bleed hole, tighten the
> bolt back down, final fill the tank, put the cap back on the tank and cut
> the revs back to idle. A couple of cool-down/heat up cycles on short trips
> should finish the task as a properly-working system draws coolant in from
> the overflow tank as any trapped air bubbles cool and contract.
>
> If your car doesn't respond as expected, then something is not right.
>
> Jim
>
> On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 10:31 AM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
>
> > … and here I thought they only ever stuck open … in July :-|
> >
> >
> > > On 22-Aug-2018, at 12:19, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > >
> > > are you sure that the heater valve is not stuck closed?
> >
>
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