Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 11:40:58 -0500
Reply-To: "Jim. Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: "Jim. Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat
In-Reply-To: <3B063EE0E69B4969B00109CDB9DB36E3@ZoltanHP>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
If all goes as planned what you say is true. I have used the Libby Bong,
front-filling, and other techniques, they all depend on the system being in
very good shape in the first place. But yes, given that, filling above
"heater hill" should work, any way you do it as long as it is done
thoroughly.
Jim
On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 11:27 AM thewestyman <zolo@foxinternet.net> wrote:
> Jim,
>
> Thanks a lot for the info.
>
> I do the bleeding a little differently. Check it out if it's any good.
>
> Fill up the pressure tank as much as I can, engine running idle, put cap
> back on.
> Disconnect at the pressure tank the hose that goes to the bleed line, plug
> the bleed line and connect a yard long hose to the disconnected one, keep
> it
> vertical, have a funnel in it,open radiator bolt, keep on filling up the
> system with coolant until it comes out on the top of the radiator. Take
> the
> yard long vertical hose off, reconnect the disconnected hose to the
> bleeding
> line. Finished.
>
> Now, because the funnel is higher than the heater core, which is the
> highest
> part of the system, I assume the core is full because the heater hose is
> not
> closed by the thermostat.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Zoltan
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim. Felder
> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2018 8:53 AM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Front heater won't give heat
>
> You don't need to do anything with the hose coming out of the heater core.
> It won't do you any good as you can't use the connections to raise the
> coolant level, only to drain and lose it! You need to follow the procedure
> in the Bentley or the many variations written up on the Internet. They all
> involve getting the engine warm enough to open the thermostat, and keeping
> an eye on the tank level. After the car is warm--and with the heater valve
> wide open--loosen the bleed bolt from the top of the radiator. If you have
> a 2.1 you have a bleed valve on the thermostat housing that comes into play
> as well. Then you rev the engine to about 2000 with a wooden wedge, run to
> the front and back the bleed bolt out until you get a strong hiss of air,
> or else solid coolant--not a mix of coolant and air. You may have to remove
> the bolt all the way. Best to have someone else back in the back to keep an
> eye on the level in the tank, because this is the point where it falls a
> lot as the upper parts of the system are suddenly being filled by the
> action of the water pump. When the top of the radiator is warm to the touch
> and a solid stream of coolant is coming out of the bleed hole, tighten the
> bolt back down, final fill the tank, put the cap back on the tank and cut
> the revs back to idle. A couple of cool-down/heat up cycles on short trips
> should finish the task as a properly-working system draws coolant in from
> the overflow tank as any trapped air bubbles cool and contract.
>
> If your car doesn't respond as expected, then something is not right.
>
> Jim
>
> On Wed, Aug 22, 2018 at 10:31 AM Roy Nicholl <RNicholl@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:
>
> > … and here I thought they only ever stuck open … in July :-|
> >
> >
> > > On 22-Aug-2018, at 12:19, Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
> > >
> > > are you sure that the heater valve is not stuck closed?
> >
>
>
| 
