Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 17:08:08 -0400
Reply-To: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stephen Grisanti <bike2vcu@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Coolant Loss/Hose clamp tips?
In-Reply-To: <CA+r=Jhpzt2SEDPfiOVj=zTvOX=XU-HBnmCmGvynkCZu4YPnDXQ@mail.gmail.com>
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Tools: be sure to get a "hose pick" tool that will get under the end of the hose and break its seal for easier removal once the clamp is loosened.
The plier type tool for clamps requires the clamp orientation to be optimal to work while the cable type might be more forgiving. This is more critical for removal since you'll install it the best way for yourself.
Stephen
Mobile
> On May 18, 2019, at 4:20 PM, Larry Alofs <lalofs@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>
> I second the motion by David B. My Subie conversion has a multitude of
> hose clamps of both types, screw and spring. The spring type clamps have
> not leaked, but many of the screw type have leaked slowly and have needed
> to be retightened. I have been slowly replacing the screw type ones when
> it is convenient.
>
> The negative things about the spring clamps include:
>
> It's hard to acquire an inventory of all the different sizes you need.
> I buy some and "harvest" some from pick-n-pull junk yards.
>
> It is not convenient to replace screw clamps with spring type ones when
> loosening the connection dumps out a bunch of coolant.
>
> You really need the "special tools" to install and remove them. There
> are the cable type and the type that is more like regular pliers with
> special ends on the jaws. Google "tool for spring hose clamps" and you
> will see some examples and some reviews.
>
> Good luck,
> Larry A.
>
>
>> On Fri, May 17, 2019 at 10:38 PM Alex MeVay <alex@mevay.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm a little embarassed to be asking this question, but Friday on the
>> list here is supposed to be a little more lighthearted, right?
>>
>> TLDR, can anyone share any tips on getting hose clamps to work
>> reliably over the long term?
>>
>>
>> My van has been drinking some coolant, maybe a pint every few thousand
>> miles. This has been low on my list, as there haven't been any other
>> concerning symptoms (i.e., head gasket leak). Occasionally I would
>> find a few drips on the ground, trace it to a hose clamp, and snug it
>> up. Other than that, the amount of loss seems so small that it
>> evaporates before it leaves any evidence, making troubleshooting
>> difficult.
>>
>> I recently got a loan-a-tool pressure tester from Autozone,
>> pressurized the system to ~15psi, left it there for most of a day,
>> pumping up as needed, hoping that with things cold, the drips would
>> remain visible. I discovered little seeps/drips from NINE places.
>>
>> I am for sure a little gun-shy on tightening hose clamps, as I've been
>> burned by low-quality aftermarket replacement plastic flanges for my
>> I-4 that mush into oblivion under the tension and begin leaking. I've
>> gradually been replacing these (and any barb couplers) with metal
>> where possible, and swapping any notched hose clamps with the smooth
>> kind.
>>
>> I tighten these "firmly" with a screwdriver-sized implement. Last
>> time around, I marked the clamps so I could see if they backed off,
>> but don't have any data there yet.
>>
>> I'm considering installing one of those stainless coolant tube
>> replacement sets, but as I understand it, this adds a hose-clamp
>> junction above the gas tank, where a drip will be a big pain to fix,
>> so I want to make sure I figure this out first.
>>
>> So...
>>
>> Is there a torque recommendation for these clamps? Is it different
>> for plastic or metal flanges?
>>
>> Do these leak due to insufficient initial torque, loosening over time,
>> or plastic creep (in the hose or plastic flange)?
>>
>> Do the "pinch" style ones work any better?
>>
>> For high-risk locations (above the gas tank), what about some of those
>> clamps with integrated spring to help maintain tension?
>>
>> Thoughts appreciated,
>>
>> Alex
>>
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