Date:         Fri, 19 Jul 2019 17:57:25 -0400
Reply-To:     David Beierl <dbeierl@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         David Beierl <dbeierl@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Frig question
Comments: To: David Boan <dboan@outlook.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BYAPR12MB36403C26CF220E36E884AFF7BACB0@BYAPR12MB3640.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

>
> The frig stopped working on gas.  It was working just prior to this trip,
> and it works now on battery and AC, just not on gas.  The indicator light
> is on, and I was able to easily stop and start it, but no cooling on gas.
>

That means the fridge itself is fine and it's a flame issue.  The only
faint exception to this would be if you boiled the boiler dry running it at
too great an angle (8 degrees any direction).  That could cause caking of
the anticorrosive which ?might? preferentially insulate where the flame
goes.

Suggest pull it, operate on the bench, look for clean burner box and burner
tube, no obstruction in the flue system, clean blue flame.  Clean the
orifice with denatured alcohol and compressed air.  It's possible to run
the flame with the burner box slightly open.  It's been a long time since
I've had one open, but my recollection is that the cooling flame is at
least twice the size of the pilot flame (which is metered through an even
smaller orifice inside the gas valve).

Check gas pressure if necessary, should be eleven inches water column which
you can measure with a homemade U-tube water manometer fed by a tube with a
pinhole leak in it (to allow the regulator to work).  If you need to adjust
the regulator, always approach the final setting in the increasing
direction.

Yrs,
d