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Date:         Wed, 24 Jul 2019 19:02:07 -0500
Reply-To:     "Jim. Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "Jim. Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Installing rear poly suspension bushings
Comments: To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BL0PR20MB20982EC7DDEBC2BFEAEE2B90A0C60@BL0PR20MB2098.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Yes, I have the whiteline. My second choice, had the home-made reducer not worked, was to put all four on the bandsaw and cut them in half. But, given the difficulty of adjusting the steel sleeves in the mounted bushings I am glad I used the whole bushings and reducer. Over and done with.

Jim

On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 6:58 PM Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Guess you got the Whiteline. The Powerflex are two piece just like the > front lower control bushings. Worth the difference just for the ease of > installation. For the rear either choice works well. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf > Of Jim. Felder > Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2019 7:28 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Installing rear poly suspension bushings > > I have had a set of T3 Techics poly bushing sitting around for several > years, and bad wheel bearings gave me the excuse to tear into all that rear > suspension stuff and thoroughly go through it. Except there is a > hitch--they don't tell you how impossible it is to do the rears as a home > mechanic, they let you think you can because the front bushings weren't all > that bad. That's how they get you. But if you want poly on the rear, read > on to read the latest Felder Industries triumph of technology. > > I tried a press, giant c-clamps, and a 4-wheel drive ball joint tool > before I sent them to a local VW shop. The shop called today at lunch to > tell me they had given up on installing my bushings. When I went by to pick > up my parts, they showed me a $40 GoWesty tool made for the job. One of the > mechanics who once was in the commercial landscaping business recognized > the tool, which is essentially a steel pipe that has been drawn into a > slight funnel shape to connect two different hose sizes, as a landscaping > product. Whatever the part was actually for, nobody in the shop thought it > could be purchased locally. With GoWesty I figured it would cost another > $20 to ship andI wanted to be done this weekend anyway. > > So, Felder Industries has a new product, a Poly Rear Bushing Reducer. It > costs less than $3 in materials at Lowes. It's a steel coupler with > external threads for 2 inch pipe. It's 3 inches long of pretty heavy > malleable iron. I put it in the vise and cut 16 slot about 5/8 long into > one end with a jigsaw, equally spaced apart, doing 4 slots > north-south-east-west and then bisecting the pipe section between those > slots several times. I laid it on concrete and beat the slotted end down > with a hammer until the tabs between the slots touched and would not allow > any more reduction. Now there is a reduction in the pipe. You slip a poly > bushing with its steel center installed into the reducer into the reducer > and pull it into the sleeve in the trailing arm (two per arm) with 3/8 all > thread and washers until seated. In practice it is helpful to use a sleeve > from a Harbor Freight front end tool to get the two flanges on the ends of > the poly centered just right. It is difficult to see what the lips on each > end are doing when the whole thing is inside the reducer. But that's a fine > point, the main point is that the onerous poly bushings go right into place. > > Anyone wanting a picture of the install setup and tool just ask.I would be > glad to send this out to people ready to do this job because I doubt I will > ever need to do it again. > > Jim >


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