Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 18:36:42 -0700
Reply-To: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject: Re: Real time help needed
In-Reply-To: <SN6PR10MB2894764537FEE044D1A49C5FA0CA0@SN6PR10MB2894.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
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Dennis,
That does help.
No tach movement on cranking. Idid pop in spare ign switch , dangling, used screwdriver to turn. No luck.
The lack of tach movement is a clue I think, right?
Oil light goes out, and god now I can’t recall alt light status.
But then again no fuel smell at all during cranking.
I have a spare pump in uncertain condition. I’ll leave that to the last messy try.
I’ll check the power steering pump electrical connections.
I did rewire the d15 Connection back in 2011. https://shufti.blog/2011/11/02/vanagon-d15-connector-issue/
Today I dropped the fuse panel and checked as well as I could the d connector and my wire connectors.
I have 12 v to coil. I’ll pull ecu plug and make sure it is gettign power back, and ground. Etc .
Thanks again for the advice. You know, the suddenness of failure leads me to think electrical, but hey, I’ll find out in the end won’t I ?
:-)
Alistair
>> On Mar 28, 2020, at 6:17 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Lets get back to basics. A number of years ago Fun Bus shut down while driving to work. Though the original fuel pump gave up after I think it was ~340K back then. Get towed home. Pump running. Check spark good. Get noid light, injectors on constantly. Fuel starting to spray out of tail pipe while cranking. Checked oil level, oh yes engine filled with gas. Was bad ECU.
>
> Turning could just be coincidence or the power steering switch wiring has an issue and something sorted out.
>
> The ignition switch and hall sensor is easy to test if you have a tach. You should see the tach needle bounce slightly while cranking. For the switch, make sure warning come on and stay on while cranking. I've seen the switches fail so that ignition is cut off when turned to start. That can drive one crazy.
>
> Other common failures are the wiring from the fuse box. The ignition lead goes from the key to the fuse box on one connector and out to the coil-ecu on another. I don’t recall the pin outs but I often tie these 2 wires together. I've seen these pins burn up and the fuse box fail internally. Also, the wire from the coil positive to the ECU. This wire will corrode and fail inside the insulation 2 to 6 inches back and the insulation will look fine.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Mbob1950
> Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 8:52 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Real time help needed
>
> I like that test. Hits a lot of the problem spots.
> You can't set it 180 out I don't think due to the off center drive.
>
>
> Bob
>
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>> On Mar 28, 2020, at 19:15, Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA> wrote:
>>
>> Ärrg Mark.
>>
>> I might try that tomorrow, and when calmer. Hate to reset the shaft 180 out :-)
>>
>> Thanks for the info.
>>
>> Alistair
>>
>>>>> On Mar 28, 2020, at 5:11 PM, vw_van_fan_Mark <madvws@cox.net> wrote:
>>> You can test the hall easily enough.
>>> Set engine at TDC #1
>>> Remove distributor cap
>>> Pull center wire from cap and set end of wire on metal
>>> Loosed the 13mm nut that holds the distributor clamp to the block
>>> Leave the nut on, by just a thread or 2
>>> Lift the distributor up, as far as the clamp bracket will go since the nut is still there.
>>> Now turn on the key
>>> With a finger, slowly spin the distributor shaft using the rotor.
>>> Each 1/4 turn should trigger the fuel pump relay and thus the pump
>>> Each 1/4 turn should cause a spark from the ignition center wire to metal
>>> Each 1/4 turn should fire all 4 injectors
>>> The hall wheel has 4 trigger points, so it should trigger 4 times per turn of the distributor shaft.
>>> Mark
>>> Alistair Bell wrote:
>>>> I agree about coincidence dying when turning , little bump. Can’t find any iffy connections though. Have the fuse panel down but the d15 connection seems goid, plus the relays work as I mentioned.
>>>> Hall Sensor maybe. Might have spare at home . Power is present at hall sensor plug.
>>>> I did try ign switch spare , hanging off column. No diff.
>>>> Thanks for all the suggestions. It pouring here now and I think I’ll finish up my work work and get a ride home
>>>>>> On Mar 28, 2020, at 3:33 PM, Alistair Bell <albell@shaw.ca> wrote:
>>>>> Hi,
>>>>> Driving to work today, turn into alley and van dies. No sputter, just dead. Dash light come on.
>>>>> Cranks, no start.
>>>>> Fuel pump audible start and shut off. 3/4 tank gas
>>>>> Fuel pump and ecu relays in compartment clicking on power
>>>>> Rotor in dist seems fine
>>>>> Power to coil.
>>>>> Sure seems like ignition with the no warning death.
>>>>> Alone here so can’t do two man testing.
>>>>> I feel like I’m missing something obvious
>>>>> Any help?
>>>>> Alistair
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