Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2020 12:53:39 -0700
Reply-To: Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Steven Johnson <sjohnso2000@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Richards fog light query, inside look
In-Reply-To: <160481886.922591.1586110251396@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
Hi Richard,
Thanks for this update on your shower wiring issue. I have to say though,
I don't think I'd try, at all, to
integrate this switch. I think that a separate switch for the simple use
you are doing would do just
fine. As a matter of fact, I think I'd just slip it under the dash so you
could just reach under real quick
and flip it to on or off as needed. What you're wanting to do seems to
be asking for trouble. But
carry on as you see fit.
Steven
91 Westy
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 11:11 AM Richard Koerner <rjkinpb@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:
> Yes, great tip David on dialing in the proper resistance for the LED.
> But I have changed my thoughts a little on my project....I am just going to
> install the switch without hooking up any lighting, and see how it goes.
> Keep things super simple. Try it on a few camping outings; I can always
> retrofit at a later date if I so desire (and get the courage to hack into
> my switch).
> Thanks everyone for all the good ideas and coaching; much appreciated.
> Rich
> San Diego
>
> On Sunday, April 5, 2020, 10:53:20 AM PDT, Neil N <musomuso@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Get a 10k or larger pot and dial in the brightness you want. Then use
> that
> > value of resistance.
>
> Thanks David. Good idea!
>
> I now further regret tossing all those old potentiometers, gear with
> same! Didn't think to keep at least a couple pots for future use.
> Well, actually, I assumed I'd have same lying around somewhere......
>
> @ Richard:
>
> YMMV on this of course but on my 1981 Westy, I found that adding a
> factory switch (for fog lights) in that empty spot at lowest RH
> position of cluster made for somewhat crowded wiring at that area. It
> can be done of course but "less is more" in that regard IMO and would
> also suggest making new added wires a little "long". This might aid in
> making future removal of cluster a little easier.
>
> You may also find that there's an empty spot at the cluster where you
> could install an LED to indicate when the added (water heater?) is on.
> But, that requires digging into the cluster which can open up a can of
> failed worms. (blue ribbon, dash bulb issues)
>
> Neil.
>
>
>
> On 4/5/20, David Beierl <dbeierl@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I'd bench tested the bulb with various resistors
> >> before install, to no avail apparently.
> >
> >
> > Get a 10k or larger pot and dial in the brightness you want. Then use
> that
> > value of resistance. For the LED you need a diffused one, not clear.
> >
> > Yrs,
> > d
> >
>
>
> --
> Neil n
>
> VE7TBN
>
> 1988 Westy 50º ABA swap: https://tinyurl.com/yap5hpwt
>
> 1981 Westy 15º ABA swap: https://tinyurl.com/y9n4xob8
>
> VAG Gas Engine Swap Group <http://tinyurl.com/khalbay>
>
|