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Date:         Fri, 17 Apr 2020 19:56:33 -0400
Reply-To:     Eric Caron <ericcaron96@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Eric Caron <ericcaron96@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Vanlife in a pandemic--text version
Comments: To: Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <039801d6150f$9a1af900$ce50eb00$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Perfect,

Thanks for the good read.

Eric

> On Apr 17, 2020, at 7:26 PM, Stuart MacMillan <stuartmacm@GMAIL.COM> wrote: > > Paywall and link issues have made this impossible to read on-line so here is > the text (no photos). The Times should give you three free articles so try > going to their website: www.seattletimes.com <http://www.seattletimes.com> > for the full version. > > > > When the coronavirus pandemic got serious, I was with my brother in his van > in Death Valley. Here's what I learned. > > April 17, 2020 at 6:00 am > > The author was living out of a van in Death Valley National Park with his > brother Ethan (pictured) as the novel coronavirus spread in the United > States. > > By Connor Goodwin > > Special to The Seattle Times > > On Friday the 13th of March, it rained in Death Valley, California, one of > the driest places on Earth. > > > > "If this isn't an omen, I don't know what is," I said to my brother, quickly > hammering out a tweet only to realize we had no cell service. After thumbing > through news updates on COVID-19 - then a new, nervous twitch - I was > relieved to be siloed from the sickening world, if only for a day or two, > unaware of what was to come. > > > > Located east of the Sierra Nevada, Death Valley is a vast wasteland of > mottled rubble surrounded by modest mountains patterned like seabeds. Once a > site for mining borax, a material used in taxidermy and household cleaners, > Death Valley was repurposed for tourism in the 1930s. > > > > Despite its macabre name, Death Valley felt like one of the safest places to > be at the moment, what feels like forever ago. Judging by the full parking > lots and lines at the visitor center, others thought so as well. Around the > nation, Americans were just beginning to feel the social, economic and > psychological toll of COVID-19 and, in response, many sought refuge in > nature while they could. > > > > For much of the winter, my brother had been roaming the Southwest and living > out of his van before starting a new job as a wildland firefighter in Estes > Park, Colorado. When he suggested I fly to Las Vegas for a week of climbing > and biking in surrounding areas like Red Rock Canyon, Zion National Park and > Death Valley National Park, my only hesitation at the time was cost. > "Flights are cheap and we'd camp and cook," he assured me. > > > > Without knowing it, I volunteered for self-lockdown with my brother in his > van for a week. > > > > But reader, let me tell you, in that seemingly distant past, > self-quarantining in a van was luxurious. We had freedom of movement, > freedom from crowds and, for a while, freedom from fear. Fear of the > invisible enemy. > > > > When I arrived in Las Vegas, coronavirus was all I could talk about. After > swimming through a swamp of contagion - the subway, Newark Airport and Las > Vegas, that Carnival cruise ship of a city - I was decidedly on edge. My > brother listened patiently. "I almost didn't come," I said, breathing a > little easier on our way out of the city, away from people. "Honestly," he > said, "I haven't thought about COVID-19 all that much." > > > > I came to understand why. Far from crowds and news updates, we bouldered in > Red Rocks Canyon, biked through Echo Canyon in Death Valley, hiked outside > of St. George, Utah, and rewarded ourselves at exquisite bakeries, then, of > course, still operational. In the evenings, my brother cooked: lemon > risotto, cauliflower and chickpea curry, root vegetable medleys. We rose at > first light, assessed the weather and decided what to do and where to go > over coffee. The pleasure of it all was compounded by the thought of being > cooped up in my New York apartment with a singular view. > > > > The view from my passenger-seat window was ever changing. Layers of vibrant > red rock pancaked in Utah. Goofy Joshua trees, as if drawn by Dr. Seuss, in > the low deserts of California. Canyons everywhere polished by wind and bent > by water. > > > > The author and his brother were ahead of the curve on social distancing - as > the coronavirus pandemic spread to the U.S., the siblings were unwittingly > in the perfect place for escaping people: a van in the middle of Death > Valley. (Ethan Goodwin / Special to The Seattle Times) > > The author and his brother were ahead of the curve on social distancing - as > the coronavirus pandemic spread to the U.S., the siblings were unwittingly > in the perfect place for escaping people:... (Ethan Goodwin / Special to The > Seattle Times) More > > I took note of other vehicles built for a nomadic lifestyle, a habit among > vandwellers. Death Valley, in particular, had some war-ready rigs: mammoth > tires with aggressive tread, jerrycans with extra fuel fastened to the side, > a strip of floodlights and, the granddaddy of them all: the EarthRoamer > expedition vehicle. > > > > Between these rigs outfitted for societal collapse, the indifferent > stonescape of Death Valley, and the exponentially escalating global > pandemic, it was easy to imagine we were living a "Mad Max" prequel. Back in > New York, I wondered how many writers were working on a script starring a > Seamless bike delivery guy - like HBO's "High Maintenance," but with > mozzarella sticks. > > > > Cut off from the news, Hollywood hijacked my imagination. An abundance of > scripted doomsday scenarios colored in sketches of an uncertain future. At > once impersonal and familiar, they provided some framework to intuit the > real-life consequences of an ever-escalating global pandemic. For me, and I > suspect many others, movies are the most accessible reference point for the > current global pandemic. Perhaps this outlook indulged in fantastical > thinking too much, but in an age of spectacle, it felt natural. > > > > Reality, however, does not kneel to apocalyptic fantasy. Life on the road > had its own perils and presented a different hierarchy of concerns than the > city. Here, social distancing was not an issue. But access to certain > amenities (showers, Wi-Fi) and resources (fuel, food, water) demanded we > venture into town. > > > > Expeditions into the grocery store under the new normal required a safety > check, just like climbing. Gloves? Check. Hand sanitizer? Check. > Disinfectant wipes? Check. We stocked up as many provisions as we could - a > week at most. > > > > A series of rainy days drove us to stay in a St. George hotel on March 17. I > was uneasy sleeping in a shared, transient space, but the immediate comforts > of a spacious bed, hot shower and mindless TV beckoned sweet as any Siren. > > > > We watched CNN and I kept checking updates on the outbreak in New York. The > day I left, March 11, there were 212 confirmed cases in New York state, and > only 52 in New York City. A week later, there were 814 confirmed cases in > the city, Mayor Bill de Blasio was weighing a "shelter in place" order and > Gov. Andrew Cuomo had announced a hospital ship was en route to relieve New > York's overburdened health care system. I wasn't the only one taken by > surprise. Since then, New York City has become the American epicenter for > the pandemic and New York has more than 210,000 cases statewide (and > counting). > > > > Then, it was so early in the health crisis that the greatest dangers were > "unknown unknowns," to borrow Donald Rumsfeld's phrase. Health officials > gently prodded an unwilling public (admittedly, myself included) toward > containment measures while news reports described impending shortages of > medical supplies and inadequate testing. > > > > It was safe to assume the number of confirmed cases and deaths were > low-balled. Researchers at Columbia University corroborated this suspicion > when they estimated that at the time, there were 11 undetected cases of > COVID-19 for every confirmed case. > > > > A week removed from the problem seeming invisible, distant, it became clear > the U.S. was well past the stages of containment. The pandemic was going to > get a lot worse before it got better, especially in New York City. My > brother was convinced everyone in the U.S. would become infected at some > point. > > > > A week of van life had already dramatically shifted my daily routine, and > the pandemic fully disrupted national life as we know it. My baseline for > normalcy dug itself a grave, 6 feet deep, honoring social distance. > > > > Most Read Life Stories > > Seattle's best chefs on their favorite junk food and how they're holding up > during the coronavirus crisis > > When the coronavirus pandemic got serious, I was with my brother in his van > in Death Valley. Here's what I learned. > > Our food critic applauds the resilience of Seattle's restaurants - and names > his 5 favorite takeout places this month > > How to look good on Zoom: Tips for video conferencing like a pro > > Are you wearing your face mask properly? Many people aren't, coronavirus > experts say > > After being inundated by coronavirus coverage, I was spooked and eager to > get out of town. But, similar to trends in Washington state, a growing > backlash from locals at popular outdoor destinations, such as Moab, Utah, > and Bishop, California, discouraged outside visitors. Climbing and biking > influencers echoed this message on social media and encouraged folks to stay > local with their outdoor activity. National parks sent mixed messages by > closing visitor centers, but leaving parks open and free. > > > > The author goes about his morning routine with the desert and mountains of > Death Valley mingling in the background. (Ethan Goodwin / Special to The > Seattle Times) > > The author, right, and his brother Ethan Goodwin pose in front of the van > they lived in around the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic. (Ethan > Goodwin / Special to The Seattle Times) > > 1 of 2 | The author goes about his morning routine with the desert and > mountains of Death Valley mingling in the background. (Ethan Goodwin / > Special to The Seattle Times) > > These measures were sensible, but they put nomadic vandwellers in a new kind > of limbo. Without a permanent place of residence, what was considered local? > How could we reduce our COVID-19 footprint living on the road? > > > > On our last night, we parked at the Bearclaw Poppy Navajo Trailhead, a > popular destination for off-road trails just outside St. George. My brother > and I went for a run followed by push-ups and a core workout. He was > training for a physical exam expected of all wildland firefighters. Nearby, > the engines of dirt bikes and dune buggies buzzsawed over rollers and rock > gardens. The sky popped as folks out of view unloaded guns in target > practice. It felt like we were on training grounds for an improvised > militia. > > > > Since 9/11, the threat of catastrophe has always been there and not there. > Disasters were unexpected, but never a surprise. Climate change, in > particular, tested our capacity for doom. We were prepared to watch the > world slowly burn. We were not ready for the world to sicken overnight. > > > > Connor Goodwin: connorg03@gmail.com;


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