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Date:         Sat, 25 Apr 2020 09:21:48 -0700
Reply-To:     Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dan N <dn92610@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: No idle when engine cold
Comments: To: Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <3239A365-DC42-4D26-B1E5-40CF6E378EB3@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

there's also a leak to consider at the gasket on the throttle body... the throttle body needs to be removed to get to the gasket.

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 9:18 AM Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> wrote:

> Vacuum leaks! > > My intake exits to the rear of the van and the AFM sits behind the left > rear tail light. A silicone hose connects the two. Well, it slipped off > just enough at the AFM. I switched the clamp for a wide stainless/pinch > less piece. > > Problem solved! > > Chris. > Wysłane z iPhone'a > > > Wiadomość napisana przez Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> w dniu > 25.04.2020, o godz. 06:49: > > > > OK back to my home turf! > > So the first thing to do is make sure the idle control system is even > trying to work. Key on, engine not running the idle valve should be humming > or buzzing. > > Next step is try to diagnose based on the symptoms. When cold you just > need to give a little throttle to keep it running or a lot? Is it running > smooth or rough? If you need a lot of throttle or it is rough you have an > engine performance or mixture control issue. If rough like a miss fire than > back to an engine performance issue. > > Once warm confirm the mixture settings are at least in range. Unplug the > idle control valve and to be sure block it off. A plastic bag stuck between > that hose and valve works well. O2 sensor disconnected and using a meter on > it. You want to set the warm mixture around .6 to .8 volt and set idle > speed to 800-850 rpm. This will insure the valve has enough range to > compensate for most anything. > > > > For the failure points, the idle controller shares the temp 2 sensor > with the ECU, it needs to see the tach signal, and then there are the > inputs for the AC and power steering. These days the idle controller itself > is a very common failure item. I keep a GW rebuild on the shelf. The valve > itself very rarely fails. > > > > As for vacuum leaks, anything coming from the crankcase is unmetered > air. Normal blow by from the rings usually don’t have much O2 but a > piston-ring problem or bad or sticking intake valve can cause all sorts of > grief. A possible vacuum leak often overlooked is the valve cover gaskets. > A break on top may not leak oil but air can be getting sucked in and that > enters after the AFM. > > > > Dennis > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: OlRivrRat [mailto:OlRivrRat@comcast.net] > > Sent: Friday, April 24, 2020 10:44 AM > > To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> > > Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold > > > > Ooooops ~ not enough info from Me ~ The 2 Vans I was referring to are > 2.1L H2OBoxer powered ~ > > > > > >> On 23 Apr , 2020, at 4:37 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote: > >> > >> Yes, good to be getting back on track. Thank you. > >> I'm not the super expert for the in line motors if fitted with the > matching controls. We used to have a 91 Jetta. There was a 4 pin thermo > switch that was tied in somehow with the temp 2 sensor that would cause all > sorts of weirdness's when it failed. I think we got ~360K out of that car. > For either engine set up the warm engine should be able to idle with the > valve unplugged and as an additional test close off/block one of the hoses > so that the idle air is supplied by the throttle opening and bypass > adjustment. Set to about 800 rpm. The correct way to set up the idle is > follow the Bentley using a duty cycle or current meter on the valve to set > it. You want it work just a little. > >> > >> Dennis > >> > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: OlRivrRat [mailto:OlRivrRat@comcast.net] > >> Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 11:07 AM > >> To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM> > >> Cc: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > >> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold > >> > >> Hey Dennis > >> > >> Not good to hear that You were sick but Very Good to hear that You > >> have recovered ~ > >> > >> Hope for Your sake that it was CV-19 as You will now have better > >> chance of immunity when > >> > >> it comes around again ~ > >> > >> As for Alexs Idle Issue > Any guess on what it might be, I have 2 > >> Friends whose Vans > >> > >> are showing similar symptoms & so far the Culprit is being Illusive ~ > >> > >> ORR ~ DeanB > >> > >>> On 22 Apr , 2020, at 3:41 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote: > >>> > >>> Why would one want to that? There shouldn't be much of anything in it > and if there is that is a sign that you have an engine problem. > >>> > >>> Dennis > >>> > >>> > >>> -----Original Message----- > >>> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of > >>> Dan N > >>> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2020 5:19 PM > >>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > >>> Subject: Re: No idle when engine cold > >>> > >>> if you have the Idle control valve, the one that sit on top near the > breather tower... remove it and spray a lot of carb cleanr in it and let it > sit a while... > >>> > >>>> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 2:13 PM Chris S <szpejankowski@gmail.com> > wrote: > >>> > >>>> When engine is warm I’m able to adjust idle with idle adjustment > >>>> screw. I will check the o-ring, though. > >>>> > >>>> Chris. > >>>> > >>>> Wysłane z iPhone'a > >>>> > >>>>> Wiadomość napisana przez alex@mevay.org w dniu 22.04.2020, o godz. > >>>> 12:20: > >>>>> > >>>>> Hi Chris, > >>>>> > >>>>> I'm running the same setup as you. > >>>>> > >>>>> Sorry if this is obvious, but I didn't see you mention it. Have > >>>>> you checked the idle adjustment (bypass screw on throttle body)? I > >>>>> recall having similar symptoms when mine was set too low (screw > damaged). > >>>>> > >>>>> Alex > >>>> > >> > > >


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