Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 14:22:00 -0400
Reply-To: Stephen Engel <sengel543@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Stephen Engel <sengel543@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: oil cooler
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR0801MB3733E201777CED8975E0A7FAA08E0@DM5PR0801MB3733.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I’ve been archiving the List emails for 16 (?) years. I think you qualify as a writer Dennis as well as the other luminaries here.
If you want to go pro as a writer, can I be your editor or agent? I have no experience or qualifications however.
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 28, 2020, at 5:46 PM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Rich,
> If I was a writer I could write books on oil cooling and my approach. Here are some quick thoughts.
> First, you need to establish if there is a need and how much. If you are a 55 mph driver maybe you don’t need one.
> If you are 70+driver down south and you always use the AC maybe the 19 row is the right choice. For most with up to 2.3L engines the 16 plate will do the job.
> You should add instrumentation to determine the need?
> Adding any system adds parts to maintain and additional points of failure. The instrumentation will still be needed.
> Oil cooling thermostats are not absolute! And they do fail! They actually work by allowing the oil to bypass the cooler. There will usually be some flow through the cooler which also helps avoid a shock of cold oil suddenly coming back. Properly designed and installed they work as a mixing valve. The sandwich adapter thermostats tend to have smaller bypass paths so they are limited how much they can bypass the cooler during cold weather. Most all oil cooler t-stats tend to operate as low as 160 and fully open at 180. With the 4 port valves you can install for the return to be the controlled oil.
> Get rid of the original oil to coolant heat exchanger unless you really need to operate in extremely cold weather. You fight the coolers effectiveness by passing the oil past 200F water as it leaves the engine.
> The long lines to the front also help the thermostat work better in cold weather. As the oil in the engine heats up, that volume of cold thick oil will resist flow until that stat closes the bypass enough to push the oil past that resistance.
> Oil cooling demand is really based on engine load and speed overtime. Cooler up front puts air flow in direct proportion to vehicle speed. I traffic cooler not needed much and radiator fan will do the trick. Il temp will come up to and follow coolant temp.
> Avoid hoses on, near the engine especially near the exhaust. Steel or copper refrigeration tube, flare or yor-lok fittings. Sandwich adapter yo want a good unit, supported with replacement gaskets or using oil filter gaskets. Large unrestricted ports. 1/2" tube and AN-8 hose is enough.
>
> I'll try later to send some pictures.
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com> On Behalf Of Richard Koller
> Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 2:11 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: oil cooler
>
> Hi Vanagoneers,,
> I am retiring soon and updating my camper for future long trips and have started on renewing some of the 30 year old parts.
> I am gathering info for installing an oil cooler on my syncro. I want to install it in front of the radiator. I read one of Dennis Hayne's recent descriptions of adding one to his '91 automatic. I will choose the 16 or 19 row cooler depending on fit and AN 8 hose to fit onto it. Dennis if you read this, what is the supplier you use for the various components. I found a company in Florida that sells Mocal and Setrab. I presume you need a sandwich adaptor to supply the cooler and I would use an inline thermostat and not one in the sandwich adaptor as Dennis recommended. Where is the best place to locate the thermostat?
> Thanks
> Rick Koller
| 
